Irishman and newly-minted Malmö resident Patrick Reilly reflects on the ups and downs of deciding to up sticks and follow one's Swedish partner to start a new life in Sweden.
Taking the plunge and committing to a new life in Sweden usually prompts many questions from your nearest and dearest back home.
Namely, why are you going somewhere that has such severe winters and a peculiar language that you will be forced to learn in order to properly integrate?
Perhaps more alarmingly, why are you upping sticks for a nation that still broadcasts the Golden Girls, or should I say
Pantertanter, at 5am?
Mind you, for all the frustration one might endure learning how to wrestle open a TetraPak carton of milk, there are definite advantages to becoming a faux Swede.
Particularly if you are a "love refugee plus one", a phase of life during which the benefits of the Swedish welfare state make the case for relocating almost a no-brainer.
Like many fathers-to-be, I willingly followed my Swedish partner back home – in this case to Malmö in southern Sweden – in anticipation of welcoming our first child.
After spending the last few years living in Britain, we decided to divide 2012 between Sweden and my native
Ireland once our first born arrived in early February.
Our intention was to know by October at the latest where we were going to live in the long-term. Britain, Ireland or Sweden were our choices, and in true Golden Girls style, we discussed our options into the wee hours over coffee and cheesecake.
Returning to the UK was always an option, especially as my prospects of finding a job as a journalist there would be easier. In Skåne, media jobs are like hen’s teeth, with experienced reporters being laid off and local newspapers requiring bail-outs to survive.
In other words, potential employers are not exactly queuing around the block to snap up an Irish writer with dodgy Swedish.
Moving back to Ireland was briefly considered, even if half the population has been laid off (or emigrated) and the whole country needs the odd bail-out just to keep the place going.
Then there was Sweden, with its tantalizing promises of free healthcare and inexpensive daycare to entice us.
Compare that to Britain, which is ranked second in Europe behind Switzerland when it comes to the most expensive daycare.
There, we were quoted the princely sum of £800 ($1,300) a month. Friends with children in the UK reliably told us that was cheap.
In case you were wondering, Sweden was ranked 27th out of the 31 countries surveyed when it came to expensive childcare, with Britain coming in second and Ireland third. The average British family spends 26.6 percent of their income on daycare, whereas in Sweden it is 4.6 percent.
When you have a new baby to consider, these are factors you have to take into consideration. Or as my father put it rather more bluntly:
"What is the point in going to work just to pay some stranger to raise your children?"
The cost of daycare and lack of family support ultimately ruled out Britain as we edged closer to settling on the country we would call home.
While my native Ireland was still in the running, circumstance soon intervened and the decision to uproot to Malmö for good was made.
On a short visit back to Ireland in mid-April, our two-month old son suddenly took ill.
As any new parent can tell you, it is a frightening experience made all the worse by the eye-watering cost of medical care in my home country.
A visit to the night doctor and couple of nights stay in an Irish hospital cost over €200. And when our son later developed a fever, we were charged a flat fee of €50 just to see a medical professional.
That pretty much sealed the deal – get out of here fast.
Leaving my family behind and removing their day-to-day involvement with a new grandchild wasn’t easy. However, when they were informed of how much better the system for children is in Sweden, they practically offered to buy the ticket for our flight back.
So now we’ve set up shop in Malmö for good.
Granted, daycare and healthcare are top-notch, not to mention the generous paternity leave benefits, especially if you have been working in Sweden.
But that doesn’t mean
everything is better in my adopted land.
For starters, finding a first-hand rental lease in Malmö is akin to an act of God, with the situation similar - if not worse - facing new arrivals in
Stockholm.
Sure, there are plenty of places in Malmö’s upmarket western harbour, where rents start at 12,000 kronor ($1,780) per month for a two-bedroom apartment, or in one of the suburbs better known for violent crime.
Finding somewhere in-between which is suitable for a young family requires patience and a great deal of luck. But that’s another story altogether.
After a few weeks of our new life in Malmö, we are slowly starting to appreciate what this city has to offer.
There is a free daycare centre a stone’s throw from our flat which is open weekday mornings and welcomes kids ranging from practical new-borns to five-year-olds. It also encourages parents to sing along with obscure nursery rhymes which will surely put off their offspring from ever cropping up on X Factor.
And hey, there is more to this city and indeed Sweden than just a new parents' utopia.
Practically everybody speaks English, which is both a blessing and a curse if you want to learn the local tongue. In the interim, it at least helps me to practice my profession while I resume my
svenska studies.
Finding a home was a struggle and I’ve no doubt the task to find proper work will be just as tough. A daily scan of the employment market generally only yields techy jobs with strange titles.
Why for the life of me I didn’t become a C++ developer, I'll never know.
Having ruled out a radical career change (for now anyway) the only thing one can do in these circumstances is be resourceful.
Sweden, as I’ve discovered, is a country that welcomes new ideas, and entrepreneurship is encouraged, which fills this new arrival with hope for the future.
Ultimately those of us who decide to build a new life in Sweden have to make things happen for ourselves.
And if you ask me, there is no greater motivation to succeed than the desire to want to create as secure a situation as possible for our infant son.
Due largely to the Swedish way of life, the country's ample social safety net, and other pro-family policies (did I mention the parental leave thing yet?), those aspirations now feel much more attainable than they might have been in Britain or Ireland.
And if none of that works out there is always another re-run of the Golden Girls to lap up.
Patrick Reilly
twitter.com/thelocalsweden
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Fair enough, but why Malmö? After all, if you want to mo´ve to Sweden, why pick an Arab city?
For your attention, unless you've paid into a scheme etc you can not "suck" up benefits etc. I work here self employed,pay tax and thats it. The health care in the UK is free and generally no worse than here and I have no paternity leave to take as I haven't paid into a scheme...But there has to be a compromise when couple from different countries fall in love and have kids...and we chose Sweden and f*ck and your assumptions
Yer know, what with the writer being a 'journalist', and what with this being a 'journalistic piece'!
The clues are all there!
start planning for life after your swedish girlfriend and your infant son.....
a swede is a humanoid hybrid with no human feelings
although they are capable of showing human like emotions......
their is no honey in the moon....
so when the honeymoon period is over...you will soon realize
a very cold and strange reality....good luck....
Are we to assume you have 'loved and lost' in Sweden? If I so then would also assume the breakup had something to do with your attitute rather than the other way round.
If you still live here then time for you to leave my friend, if not why are you even posting on the article.....
No...I suspect it's to keep cowardly online bigots, haters and trolls (like you?) off the comment boards. Freedom of expression indeed. //
As regards this article and staying on topic, I immigrated to Sweden (unwillingly, as I'd travelled around Scandinavia before) from Canada via the UK with my Swedish partner 22 years ago. After 4+ years on Gotland, I now live in S/holm
We're now divorced, of course, as to mind many Swedish women go through a phase where they think Swedish men are "boring" and look for a foreign partner, preferably English speaking. Unfortunately, the novelty soon wears off. I've now remarried, but not to a Swede -- who generally speaking make great friends and f***buddies but lousy life partners.
One observation is that if you have kids together you will never leave this country! (at least not for many years). So stop kidding yourself that you will.
Sweden is not paradise on earth, no matter what Swedes tell you or try to convince themselves, but nevertheless -- and having lived in 7 countries in my lifetime -- it is one of the best countres in the world to live, especially for women and "HBT persons".
Like any country, it takes a while to get used to and integrate. Learning the language is not necessarily an advantage for an English speaker, especially in Stockholm - but still IMO a prequisite.
If you can find your niche, ie gainful employment and a social circle, you'll do fine. Above all, respect the host culture and it will respect you. You don't have to "assimilate", ridiculous that racists and bigots even expect it -- plus it's impossible anyway.
Just adopt the parts of the culture you can relate that will help you feel at home -- say snus and Swedish DJs -- and overlook the bits that you're never going to understand -- say dansbandmusik and Lucia.
Above all, ignore the parochial idiot racists and bigots who post bile on Internet forums and comment boards, because more than 80% of Swedish residents disagree with them with a vengeance.
When reading Patricks text I can`t help to think that he might have been abit shortsighted. Sure it`s smart to move to a country where there is good care for oneself and ones child, but what about the chances of integrating into the society? For both oneself and ones children when they grow up?
You won`t be a father to a small child for long, those years fly by fast. You should think about your own chances to a good and integrated life. The best way to do that is in my opinion through a job and having a solid social network. I`d imagine it would be easier for your swedish partner to get a job and a solid social network in an english speaking country then for you to get the same in a country where you don`t speak the language.
- wow. you must have a story to tell.
I think you will find girls are girls the world over. if you marry a beautiful swedish girl - size 8 long blonde hair etc etc - then dont be surprised if other men arent also going to find her attractive and want to make a move on her. its the way of the world.
it goes both ways to.
by the by there is an abundance of good looking - well stunning women and girls in stockholm. if you get dumped by one go out and find another.
the one thing I can say about sweden is it has an awesome public transport system. at least here in stockholm. dont know how I am going to deal with car insurance, petrol bills, police revenue collectors, traffic and parking when I get home. all in 40C. aarrgghhhhhhhhhhhhh!
in the end its your personality that gets you by in this world so try not to blame others.
as others have said sweden seems to be holding its own in this prolonged GFC but I believe its starting to feel the pinch. Friends have told me previously that geneva was doing well and had high salaries but they are getting hammered now to.
in defence of british girls i can at least say they have heart and some personality, which goes alot further than a clitorus....(although in the swedish job market you can become a company director with a clitorus for a brain)
If you are an Arab, African, or were born in some excellent highly developed and highly cultured country, can not read and write, you want Sweden. Otherwise, you will be deported.
May I suggest to the writer of this article the entrepreneurial proposal of bulk buying Prozac and flogging it at the next Swedish Democrats meeting?
Of course, if you're looking for work in Sweden don't expect it to be easy. Language skills are a must, but even with good Swedish it's an uphill struggle to find work. Unlike, England, it's a buyers market when it comes to jobs and recruitment processes often last months(!)
[Some work for the moderators to do to remove earlier comments me thinks]
Seriously, if you are so unhappy in Sweden and dislike the Swedes, why don't you leave?
over9000 +++++++ :-)
As far as jobs. I had the skills, certifications and work history with one of the largest IT firms in the US, and I was unable to find a job in Malmo. I couldn't even get a job at an Irish bar because of my American accent. I won't mention the name, but you might get lucky there.
What I ended up doing after a few failed attempts was to start my own online business, which is now based in the US (I no longer live in Sweden, but still visit). I would definitely recommend starting your own business. It can be targeted to Ireland, the UK or the US just as easily or even easier than Sweden and those are larger markets. Ideally, a business you could operate from anywhere. If you have the ideas, energy and enthusiasm; the price of freedom is worth a few failures. If you're not captain of your own ship in Sweden, your partner and the Swedish state can make you feel like a kept man very quickly.
One last caveat. As is the case in many countries, Swedes like the 'concept' of entrepreneurship 'in theory', but will remain highly skeptical of an actual entrepreneur with few resources living in their midst. If you choose the entrepreneurial route, prepare for an extended period of no respect and complete lack of understanding for what you are trying to achieve. Failure will be met with pity and suggestions to plug into the matrix. Resistance is not futile.
so you find a nice swedish women and move in together / buy a property and something happens? her personality changes? Id really love to hear more about this.
Im curious because Ive been engaged 7 times, at least 20 long term girlfriends and married once and remain that way. took me a longtime to find the right one. Im not bitter at all. Ive given 3 houses away. live and learn.
all I can think of is a quote from the doors - "women are wicked when your unwanted".
If you want to know how swedish women, or swedish men for that matter, think you shouldn`t ask here. You should go out and get some first hand experience. The only thing you will get here are negative comments. The people who live happy lives with Swedes don`t come to sites like these, they are to happy enjoying their lives. The ones you hear here are the ones who want to scream about their horrible experiences.
I was a network engineer prior my foray into Sweden. I never imagined getting a job - ANY job would be so difficult for one so experienced in many disciplines besides IT.
I had a doting girlfriend, with whom I later had a child - all the while unemployed sending out many, many cvs. Desperation set in and soon I was applying for anything - dishwashing, bar tending, labouring jobs to not even get a reply.
I studied a distance course in web programming and registered a company while looking after my child. It earned me a pittance, but at least gained me a skill...It was something, but not enough to save my relationship.
My doting partner had at this stage kicked me out,("Cant buy me Love" is only a Beatles song, similarly, "Living on Love" is a noble thought - but still just a thought) ...no money, no honey' suddenly doesn't seem cliched and cynical.
Big gambles, immediate gains, long-term uncertainty - the risk-benefit analysis in such a situation is anybody's guess.
Another aspect....It is hopeless to even consider getting custody when a woman will always win, especially one who has a recent history of employment and percieved stability against one from a man who has been recently long-term unemployed. You couldnt even possibly afford a lawyer, let alone navigate the legalese and paperwork in Swedish.
I left Sweden a few months ago - Im gainfully employed again and my social status restored - but at what cost?The jury is out on if I'd do it again - time lost, love lost and child lost notwithstanding.
I can only I chalk it down.
But every situation is different, times are different now too - the worst of the financial crisis has passed (fingers crossed).
If there is any advice I would give myself just before a similiar move ....make friends - your own. Yes its tough, but make it a priority. Just about every menial job I eventually got in Sweden was through a contact - never an application. Never did get employment in my field.
For every Non-Swede friend or acquaintance make 2,3,4,5 Swedish ones.
Learn the lingo, meet other dads while taking care of your child, play sport...never stop applying, open every line of enquiry about self-employment, skills upgrading, government incentives, volunteer...commute work - even as far as flying home on weekends from the UK.
Once you stagnate - get out. Depression and self-doubt wont be far off. Leave with your dignity and family intact before things get out of hand.
Again - this is not a generalisation of the typical experience, financial crises are not the typical time to set roots in a new country either in circumstances unique to me.
swedish women are like other women worldwide.
everyone is going to look more favorably at a wealthy partner. its the way of the world.
I look out my window there are dozens of beautiful women. I go for a walk - dozens of beautiful women. I go into a supermarket ( ica coop lidl hemkorp ) dozens of beautiful women.
if I was a stunning 180cm size 8 long haired woman like I see getting around here Id be a tad choosey and expect a little more. love is fine but poverty sux.
my experience here is just about every woman I have spoken to has been as pleasant as her looks. ie really pleasant :)
from my experience also - hell hath no fury like a woman scorned.
my advise to anybody who consider sweden. stay away. try other english speaking places. sweden is not all that it seem like it is.
good luckl.
And for the poster who raved about Sweden's "excellent public transportation system": thank you for making me laugh today! Even when the weather is sunny and warm the train route between Stockholm and Uppsala has a breakdown EVERY SINGLE WEEK. Even the busses suck here. Uppsala's UL busses run on time maybe 50%. They are usually delayed 5-10 minutes every morning (not to mention vastly overcrowded and expensive). And our reward for this inferior service?: a price increase every six months!
I lived in L.A. for 14 years and that city's train and bus lines blow all in Sweden out of the water. Yes: car-friendly and freeway filled Los Angeles actually knows how to run public transit (and cheaply, too).
Patrick Reilly should' ve stayed in Ireland. After he has no job even 3 or 4 years from now he'll realize his mistake.
I don't mean that girls should treat you in a bad way when you guys are jobless (for the moment I hope) and women should support, trust and encourage their man on this situation.
FACT: LOVE is the most wonderful thing in the world but that situation changes when you have no food on table and bills are accumulating. In my opinion, women on this situation would really burst especially if you have a child to consider.
Everybody is looking for security; men, women, even animals are looking for security. The question is if immigrants get the security, which they expect in Sweden or not?
How you define the security; job, food, health, house, clothes, child benefit, weather condition, neighbors, friends, social relations, wealth, the ability to understand different people, respect different cultures, and ….; all can be considered part of security.
Sweden gives the impression that it gives such securities to the people, who are not familiar with the country (they, who are familiar know what is going on!). Sweden is the best country in the world, Sweden is the best in this and that…; you read and hear it thousand of times in the news, here and there! To give a wonderful image of Sweden is important to get people in here, immigrant or refugees.
For they, who actually have lived in Sweden; the story is different. As a matter of fact there is not much job in the country, and it's hard for immigrants to find job. People don't immigrate to a country, where it's hard to find job.
The immigration to Sweden has fallen sharply for over 30 years ago, because manufacturing jobs have reduced. The country has never been a country for immigrants in a general term (like US or Canada). Nobody came here to compete with Swedes in a white collar job (could never compete either, and still is very hard to do that). The policy of country has been switched from manufacturing to service jobs, and from immigrants to refugees (because you can always get refugees, there is always war somewhere in the world).
Practically, it's harder for you to find a good job if you are educated (unless you get a job in health care, because the population is old and need health care).
You get what you pay for - either directly or through taxes.
Granted, there's some degree of distribution of the costs of raising children - in the end - you pay for it.
Why on earth would the author not describe the fact that his pay will be lower (payroll tax) - and - his taxes will likely be higher.
At the end of the day, I think it's more about 'efficiency' of investment - as opposed to how it gets paid for.
Jomamas, childcare cost vs tax, doesn't quite balance, but perhaps it depends how many kids you have. Most people move for the work and family life balance being better. 99% of the population don't work over 40hrs a week and get plenty of holidays with their family, that is what life is about. Not worrying over tax, childcare and hospital visits.
but i guess there is american dream.
am soon moving back to america. i have had enough of sweden.
I'm gonna burst your "happy land" bubble here. Ever thought of the chance that people might post "negative" things here on the local, because of the fact that their opinions are never heard or seen in any Swedish media?
Try writing a comment on any Swedish online newspaper that doesn't praise the country, but in fact tells the truth. Know what will happen? It will not be published. Like that fact or not, but media in Sweden IS brainwashing it's people into believing they would be the Nr.1 country in the world in everything they do! Which couldn't be further away from the truth.
Here you are actually allowed to have an own opinion, and therefor, of course people who broke out of the "golden cage" called Sweden will go here to TheLocal and finally speak their mind to those poor people out there that doesn't know the true sides about that country, and through that spare a lot of disappointment to those that considered moving there. And it does need to be said. If you look at any Swedish media, you are only gonna hear how wonderful everything in there is. Example, every year during ESC when another country win it, you will always see the headlines the next day " A swede cleaned the shoes of the singer, therefor it is a SWEDISH victory!"
I could write a freaking book with nothing but the horrors that country consist of, unfortunately the commentary field here doesn't allow that many signs, so I'll just bring up a few things.
1. As mentioned before from a poster, There is no free healthcare. As soon as you turn 18, your on your own. And the bills per Doctor visit, and not to mention dental visit, is enough to ruin a person. Pray you don't get sick. If you do, you'll be lucky if the ambulance even decide to pick you up.
2. There are no jobs for anyone there based purely on education and experience. Apply all you want, without a friend inside you won't get in. Then again, in Sweden you don't HAVE to work! You can write yourself as a "student", then sit on your aßß all day doing nothing, you don't even have to pass the course you signed up for, the state will pay you anyway with the money the ACTUAL HARD WORKING people pay in tax, and as you are signed up as "student", Sweden can brag about having "little to no unemployment". Brilliant, isn't it?? What a paradise!
3. Immigration is taking over completely. My old school I went in had to cancel going to church during graduation, cause there was TWO Muslim students in it, therefor, any Swedish tradition had to be cut. No more meat served, no church, only whatever pleased the Muslim family with it's two kids. Nowadays, there sure is a lot more then 2 Muslims per school there, and they all demand Sweden to adjust after them, not the other way around. Kiss your Swedish traditions byebye, they will soon be completely eradicated.
Point being? If your looking for a new country to move to in order to live happily ever after, Sweden is NOT the one!
it's because no one wants to listen to a small minority of haters, bigots and malcontents constantly hating and whingeing and finding someone to blame for their own personal issues and/or the poor economy, especially the ones who cower behind a user name on the Internet.
Sweden isn't a perfect country by any means, but it's still pretty good, and what people like you always advocate is a sort of white, Christian version of Iran.
You forget that with the possible exception of snus (which also exists in North Africa but that tobacco originated in Norht America) and innebandy etc, Seweden has a tradition of importing its culture and traditions. Almost nothing that exists in Swedish society -- from pizza to dansband to Lucia to Halloween to ice hockey -- is originally Swedish.
I mean, bloody Kalle Anka at Xmas for God's sake!
So instead of kissing your perceived "Swedish traditions"goodbye -- ie what you know and grew up with -- learn to accept some new ones, or if not accept them then tolerate them.
And toleration is one tradition that Sweden is both known and respected for.
I agree with your opening statement but you have very little knowledge of traditions in Sweden. Sure there has been alot of cultural and traditional import but that`s not the entire story. Alot of Swedens old traditions have been americanized or transformed by christianity.
Snus, midsummer, crawfishparty and walpurgis isn`t the only thing swedish. Lucia was called Lussinatta before christianity took a hold in the north. It was a pagant celebration of the darkest days of the year. Halloween in Sweden is Allhelgona and celebrates the first day of winter. Xmas was called Julblot in Sweden before christianity and was a feast to celebrate the start of the end of winter. Other then that you are spot on.
Like many immigrants (Colin Nutley for example :))))...I'm an observer of Swedish culture. My examples were trite but to make a point, which is what Charon calls "Swedish culture" is just a hotchpotch that evolved time and heavily influenced by overseas cultures.
I can't speak for pre-Christianity because IMO that's going back too far in time to relate to modern circumstances, though while we're at it, Halloween isn't an American festival, which seems to be what you're implying -- it's an ancient Celtic tradition imported to the USA and commercialized (like many traditions in the US).
Thus my only beef with your comment is that I woudn't call pagan culture "Swedish" because as far as I know the concept of Sweden as we know it didn't exist in those days.
Ha det bra!
PS ramazama...your comment is a total joke.
it was easy for us to find a job coz we are doctors ,, we have everything now in sweden:
villa, modern car, high salary ,, our children are happy in the school and with their friends,
we enjoy everything the system offering to us BUT we are not happy , as if we have lost our humanity in here, i dont know why exact , may b its the long dark winter, homesickness, lack of appropriate friends, thats why we decided to move to another country where we feel happy and enjoy life while we are hard working couple,, it should be a sunny country , english speaking with less of integration problems, we will head to Australia , USA or Dubai....
In my opinion unless you are above 65 y or jobless you should never move to sweden..
through my job i noticed horrible consumption of sedatives, narcotics and antidepressant in this country and this must mean somthing? these drugs help swedes to accept their reality or live in unreality i guess..
P.s excuse my english coz as many of u have noticed, your english will never be the same again , i mean u lose it with time to the swedish ..
good luck!
No.
Moving from Sweden: is it the right decision?
Yes.
Read the above comments, you will got the insight.
I have moved to Sweden too a few years ago, from Slovakia and it looks like we are from different ends, as all those services you mention above are even cheaper in SVK than in Sweden, neverthless it is not the point. I am glad I have moved here, not yet knowing if it is for good...
My point:
I work for Tetra Pak and I do not appreciate your comment regarding Tetra Pak package: "Mind you, for all the frustration one might endure learning how to wrestle open a TetraPak carton of milk, there are definite advantages to becoming a faux Swede."
Could you specify what kind of package makes you "wrestle to open" so we can look at possible improvement to make customer more happy? There is not much fresh milk in Skåne packed in our packages, as there is a lot of competition here.