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Boston Blatte

Raised in Boston, remade in Sweden

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Swedes: We just don’t get them.

Thursday, August 18th, 2011

I think I get Swedes. Sort of. Kind of. Still working on it, really.

I’ve been at it for nearly 2 decades and the learning curve has been tumultuous, but any good ride has its ups and down. However, it can be a hit or miss for most “newbies” to Sweden. And if you read the pages of The Local, you’ll find there is often “someone” with their knickers in a twist about Swedes. This popular article on TL comes first to mind.

Now it’s quite true that striking up conversation with the random Swede on the street is not always forthcoming. Swedes are a little skittish and they (particularly 08ers aka Stockholmers) are molded from that normal “big city aloofness” you find in any big city which does make them hard to reach. But reachable they are. Warm and loving too. But yes, also, terse, stoic and reserved.

swedes

I’m gregarious. I talk up everyone and anyone and it took me a long while to realize that I’m pretty odd in Boston too. New Yorkers and other Americans regularly complain about us Bostonians being uptight and unapproachable. When I first heard it, I was shocked. Taking a look at it with open eyes I realized that there’s truth to it. Your average Bostonian won’t strike up random conversation, not the kind of polite conversation the people in the article are talking about. BUT, if YOU strike up conversation with a Bostonian and work at it by all the unwritten social/cultural rules of Bostonianism, you can be chatting away for hours.

Stockholmers are like Bostonians: tough nuts to crack (and Swedes have slightly tougher outer shells.) But inside that outer crust it’s all warm and gooey.

I feel sorry for the couple in the above article. They think that because they were brown Swedes didn’t want to interact with them. I’m brown (more so now after a sunny summer) but I chat up Swedes regularly with the fitting success one can ascribe to chatting to Stockholmers.

But maybe I “hear” Swedes better. So much communication among Swedes is non-verbal: a nod of the head, a crook in their smile, a twinkle in their eye.

As for the staring, I have heard people complain of this, but in all honesty I’ve never felt it myself (do Bostonians stare a lot?).

So take heart. If you want to speak to Swedes. Make the first, gentle move. Wait. And then listen…they’re talking to you.

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Right on Red in Sweden: Right on!

Wednesday, June 15th, 2011

I never thought I would see the day that turning right on red while driving would ever come to Sweden, even if only as a discussion. Dagens Nyheter had it as a front cover story in yesterday’s newspaper. (The Local’s article in English)

right on red

The story came on the heels of the previous day’s news about the Stockholm government’s proposal (or at least discussion opener) to allow bicyclists to drive through red lights in certain circumstances. The idea is that many bicyclists already do this and that it would make traffic flow better. Not sure if I agree with that.

On the other hand, coming from Boston, no one would be surprised if it were suggested that I might (not admitting anything here) regularly, daily even, already partake (purely for scientific purposes) in both activities.

Right on red is the driving rule that I miss terribly from driving in N. America and in Boston. I sort of miss the ability to pass on the right when on a highway too, but I can adjust to that one easily enough since cars don’t hog the travel lane like they do on Yankee Division Highway ( old Rt. 128 –NO one knows it as Yankee Division Highway) or anywhere on I-95 or the Pike.

But I digress (no stop sign posted.)

I doubt this traffic law will ever be enacted in Sweden, but I would really love it if it did.

Though the arguments against all point to greater chaos on Stockholm’s streets. I doubt that. As much as it should be admirable that Swedes are highly law abiding, the pedantic sticking to what a motorist or bicyclists “thinks” the rules are or ought to be (that’s worse) causes heaps of chaos.

I still subscribe to the Bostonian mentality of driving/biking…communicate, work it out and flip ‘em off (if need be;) but just get out of the way!

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Groupon Coupon Stockholm: Today’s deal

Monday, February 28th, 2011

I bought my first Groupon Coupon today at an 80% discount.

80% sounds too good to pass up (even if I am skeptical of how much the original price normally is.) Groupon, if you’re not familiar with it yet (and haven’t clicked on the link,) is a deal-of-the-day website offering collective bargaining power.
groupon
Boston was the second city market (after Chicago) to kick off about 2 years ago. After signing up for the Boston deals (since I’m there regularly) I discovered that Sweden has its own Groupon and its Dagens deal.

So I went for broke (thinking that I really might be just throwing away money if I never use the coupon or if it doesn’t work out or some other pessimistic disastrous eventuality) and took today’s deal.

Don’t laugh, it’s a hair-removal treatment using some fancy-dancy-schmancy thing-a-ma-bob. hair
I’m not all that hairy, but if I can be rid of the tufts of unwanted hair forever…all at an 80% discount, I’ll be a Groupon addict from here on in.

I’m afraid to consider the alternative.

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Keeping tradtions: Taking the student

Thursday, June 10th, 2010

We were invited to our neighbors’ house for a party. Their daughter “took the student”. That’s a literal translation of the Swedish way to express the formal event of graduating from high school (I’ve never quite figured out the closest equivalent in the UK, so sorry, can’t offer a British term).

While American highschoolers march solemnly in caps and gowns to receive their diploma, shake someone’s hand and gloat jubilantly that they made it; Swedes just “run out” utspring Well, so I’ve heard. I’ve been invited to two (including today’s for the neighbor daughter) but haven’t witnessed on myself yet.

Contrary to the gown idea, there’s no formal wear for graduates. Their outfits are made up of something nice to wear and though certainly their student caps. I like those caps but I can’t help but expect to hear the Popeye the Sailor man theme. Regardless, they seem a whole lot slicker than the funny cardboard platform we wear
graduation cap

Had I been among the masses of family and friends watching the “out run” I would have seen the numerous plaques with giant photos of the graduate as a baby. The cuter the better apparently. Though it kind of looks more like a happy protest sign.

The best thing going for the Swedish students, at least around Stockholm is the parade ride through the city center.
They get to choral into large containers on the back of heavy trucks and jump and sing and spray near-non-alcoholic beer on people (and themselves) while these trucks create traffic backup to the displeasure and dismay of those who work and move around central Stockholm this time of year. Swedes are very safety conscious most of the time. That need for safety does a big scadaddle with these float/parades.

I know they’re a nuisance in downtown Stockholm but I am charmed by the suspension of the strict adherence to all rules (as is rather Swedish) to let newly graduated teens shake their groove thing.

It does go to show that Swedes are indeed known to bend a rule now and again. Good for them.

And congratulations Ida.

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Driving Flash: Koenigsegg Trevita and Gumball Rally

Monday, May 3rd, 2010

Jay Leno got what I nearly owned myself, a Koenigsegg. Well, he bought a Trevita (one of the 3 -yep, just three) and [my] SAAB was nearly bought out by Koenigsegg. Yes, too long a stretch for a comparison, but dang, I gotta make myself feel better about having a plonky family car (albeit a turbo) when there are three Swedish Koenignsegg Trevitas out there and Leno just got his delivered…by Christian von Koenignsegg himself.

koenigsegg trevita

The name is constructed using the Swedish words for ‘three’ (tre) and ‘white’ (vit). And in this case, the name accurately describes the production number and the colors on offer. And while white sounds lackluster the finish apparently sparkles. The wow factor to the white color is that the finish is carbon fiber which to the rest of us is available in a wide selection of “any color so long that it’s black.”

If Sweden is going to only have one car brand that is purely Swedish, it sure don’t hurt that it’s this smokin’ sexy!

While we’re on the topic of snazzy cars and Sweden the Gumball 3000 Rally just passed through. In fact, I was a part of it for a few exits as I drove up the E4 north of Stockholm this evening. I was wondering why there were people hanging out on the embankments and overpasses looking down on me (well, probably not specifically my not-quite-a-koenignsegg SAAB.)

gumball 3000 rally 2010

The cars will be flown from Stockholm (Arlanda) to Boston…now don’t that just neatly tie in the Stockholm/Boston connection of this blog.

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Dodge: Driving Luxuryin Sweden.

Thursday, March 25th, 2010

When a Dodge is regarded as a exclusive automobile you know you are dealing with  a big time cultural clash. I just saw a Dodge Charger in a parking lot rented from or representing an “exclusive” car service (there was a website advertised on the chassis somewhere.)

Last August I rented a similar one in Boston from Enterprise. No upgrade, nothing flash. Standard full size fleet car (I presume since I didn’t pay extra and it was one of the choices.)Dodge Charger

I picked it because it looked fun and because I knew my 5-year old would associate it with Lightning McQueen from Disney’s movie, Cars
McQueen

Truthfully I was disappointed by its lack of  “muscle”…and let’s keep in mind…it’s a modern Dodge. The car brand Dodge doesn’t conjure up luxury and exclusivity in the run-of-the-mill American -or Bostonian- (whether merited or not.)

This reminds me of the cultural clash more than a decade ago when my husband I were renting a Pontiac Grand Am. He was all excited because it was a “Pontiac” and all I was thinking was…”Sheesh, all we get is a Pontiac.”

It does go to show that status symbols and quality reputation is both a matter of marketing and propaganda but also of cultural perception.  So here I am straddling the cultural divide ridiculing anyone trying to show off with a Dodge. It reminds me that regardless of culture or national identity  we’re all  potentially idiots.

After all, Volvo is the intellectual elite’s luxury status symbol in the US. Just drive though Wellesley (MA) one day.  Try to tell that to  Lars-Evert from Uddevala and watch him belly chuckle in his wooden clogs.

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Bathroom culture: the sewer of the cultural soul.

Thursday, March 18th, 2010

As I stood in line to pee (had to ponder which word to call the “facilities” and decided to skip it entirely–didn’t want to alienate the Canadians, Brits, Irish and Antipodeans) at Berns,Berns a posh night club venue in Stockholm, for the first ever comedy for the International Comedy Night (sheesh, that’s a long sentence –oops not done yet) I reflected that the experience reflects Stockholm and Sweden in a surreal microcosm.

First. The facilities (that term seems to be neutral enough) were for both men and women. True equality of the sexes, everybody had to stand in line. The only time I shared the facilities with men in Boston I was kicked out immediately thereafter.

Second. No one talked. Lines for Boston bathrooms (and that’s exclusively for women since there’s never a line for the men ) are the place everyone talks.  If it isn’t idle talk there’s bathroom line solidarity where women make pacts to get in and out and quickly as possible knowing that several women are uncomfortably shifting from leg to leg. That solidarity is often strengthened by the emergence of 3 women leisurely exiting a room-sized bathroom. In this line the men in suits (for some reason there were only men which I mistakenly thought would mean a short wait)  stood in silence. In very Stockholm fashion 3 of them were texting (better known as “sms-ing” in Swedish.)

Third. No confrontation. Since there were a good number of stalls (though in Swedish fashion the walls are all the way to the floor so you can’t see if there are legs regardless of which direction they might be pointing) I was unpleasantly surprised by how slow the turnover was going. When it was finally “my turn” and I walked to the end of the stall hallway for the newly emptied handicapped toilet (so why are they making the people in a wheelchair go all the way to the end of a narrow aisle anyway?) I tried all the doors that were closed but didn’t have a red dot on the lock. Sure enough there were 3 empty stalls no one had dared try while waiting for an open door. If anyone had had the thought they realized that by stepping ahead of the person in front of you to check the doors would have been taken as a passive form of confrontation (skipping the line isn’t popular).

Fourth. There was an escape ladder in my stall.  OK. That’s not really indicative of anything Swedish or Stockholm but it did amaze me. First I thought it was a very designed towel rack (that would have been very fashionably Swedish) then I joked to myself that it was an escape ladder and when I looked up to see the emergency exit sign I realized that it was indeed meant for escaping during an emergency.  (So why in the stall where people in wheelchairs are required to go?)

Finally.  A diaper changing station in a nightclub.  Here we are on the floor level of the hip club and there’s a diaper changing station (yay for parents but like who is likely to be bringing an infant in there?) However, how very unSwedish of them to have stuck it in the handicap stall. I guess it’s rather Stockholmish of them to not want to infringe on the green granite sleekness of the sink area of the facilities.

I used the facilities a final time before I left Berns. There was a man and a woman standing in line (and talking to each other –so there goes those stereotypes I just wrote about.)  From the last time I was pretty sure several of the stalls were empty so I went ahead of them while asking if anyone had checked if the closed stalls were all indeed occupied. I was then told by the guy (there goes that non-confrontational stereotype now) where the line formed. As I found my first empty stall I tried to show him how there were several available and that none of us had to stand in line (trying to bring some of that Boston bathroom solidarity to Stockholm -fail) but it seemed to fall flat on deaf ears. Since there were clearly more stalls empty than there were people in line I just used the 3rd empty stall I found.  When I came out…

The two people were still waiting.

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Friday, March 12th, 2010

Sweden’s parliament voted Thursday to recognize the Armenian genocide (article).  While I generally stand clear of political controversy in my blog (mostly since no one ever wins and inevitably there’s some nutter who is going to try to draw some moronic comparison to something completely unrelated and irrelevant) everything unbridled in me emotionally is thrilled.  And in case there’s some outrage about all the “other bad side of this”, I do acknowledge that there is a practical side of looking at the negatives of this political decision,  but eh, screw that.  That’s  political debate and I’ll hash that out over dinner, drinks or some other interactive media.

The raw feeling of satisfaction and excitement to this heated event is deep rooted in my Boston origins, Watertown specifically,  and growing up amid one of the greatest concentrations of Armenians outside of Armenia. Heck, I even have two fake Armenian IDs (by only slightly altering my mother’s maiden name) which were used during the two Armenian sports weekends I took part in (mostly because all of my friends were going but also because I was one of the ringers on our basketball team.) I’m honorary Armenian. That honor was bestowed upon my by Fr. Davidian from the St. James Apostolic Church (we won’t go into detail that it was merely a humorous commentary while in passing conversation.) And yes, I’m making light of it, but I do have a long, rewarding history very closely connected to many wonderful Armenian friends.

Until Sweden voted today to recognize the Armenian genocide I had never really thought about the political ramifications of countries taking official stands regarding events in history. Frankly, I am a bit surprised that the vote was so close (by one vote in fact.)  Even more surprising is that 3 alliance politicians broke party ranks and voted their conscience.

Unfortunately what keeps me from feeling truly elated is a nagging lack of enthusiasm. After all, what is the point? There’s only one country which really needs to recognize that there was a concerted effort on the part of the Ottoman Empire  to murder Armenians, Assyrians and Pontian Greeks, And that’s Turkey. And that ain’t going to happen anytime soon.

So is the US going to now too?

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Stockholm snow: Shove[l] it

Friday, January 29th, 2010

Snow is different in Stockholm than in Boston. And I don’t mean that in some kitschy philosophic “every snowflake is unique” kind of way.  It’s more to do with the snowfall and accumulation than the actual substance which is the same color and temperature (though in Celsius and not in Fahrenheit.)

The first significant snow fall in Stockholm I ever witnessed started in the evening and snowed all night and throughout the next day. Had that been Boston there would have been at least 2 feet of snow on the ground, but here there was barely a decimeter (yep, snow measures up different here too.)

But now that that I have a very long driveway I am rather thankful for minimal snow accumulation during these multiple days of snowfall. In all honesty I like shoveling snow, in fact, a good amount of my teenage income came from the neighbors who wanted someone else to dig them out.  But did I mention we have a very long driveway?

Today a neighbor kindly lent me a special snow shovel that’s more a hand-operated plow/wheelbarrow. (see below)

snow shoveler I have seen them around but until today (we had about a 10 inches on the ground) I had stubbornly stuck to the plain ole shovel, my tried and trusted tool. These hand held snowplows scoop up a massive amount of snow which you then slide along the ground (like a sled) until you dump it in the grass with a quick shoving jerk;  no lifting required.

Clearing our driveway with the “plow” today probably took as long as it would have taken with a typical shovel, but I don’t have an ache in my back this evening. Could be time to invest in one of these.

Or a snow blower.

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Avatar: Leaving the movie…Where am I?

Wednesday, January 27th, 2010

I left the movie theater just outside Stockholm a bit disoriented to where I really was physically. I just saw Avatar (and yes, I know I’m weeks behind the rest of the world.)  A good story well told in an unusual setting when added to a foreign language is the recipe for me.  This doesn’t happen often yet each time I vividly remember the feeling of disorientation.

The first time it happened to me was also here in Stockholm at one of the former pearls of Stockholm cinemas (I know that sounds kind of Eurosnobby but this place was so much more than a typical Bostonian megaplex movie theater that I just can’t not give it the respect it deserves) Röda Kvarn  (just look at that ceiling)röda kvarn

Unfortunately it’s now an Urban Outfitters (I am old enough to remember when it opened its first store in Harvard Square and to have shopped there when it was the ONLY one.)

The film I saw at Röda Kvarn all those years ago was the 1992 French movie, Indochine.  I have no memory of the plot but the cinematography was stunning set in colonial Indochina in the 1930s.

So here I was; an American living at the time in Budapest (slightly able to communicate with my smidgen of Magyarúl) visiting Stockholm watching a film in French about Indochina with some indiscernible  Vietnamese dialogue unresolved by the Swedish subtitles though the Swedish boyfriend would kindly whisper a short translation into English when critical.
Indochine
As we spilled back out into the twilight evening (summer nights are just glorious in Stockholm) on Biblioteksgatan I couldn’t immediately disassociate from the southeast Asian setting and since I wasn’t in Boston I kept adjusting to a Budapest street knowing that it was, in fact, Stockholm.

Tonight I ended up in the Kista Mall since unfortunately many more than just Röda Kvarn of the glorious movie salons in Stockholm are now a matter of history. But this was only my second visit to Kista so after leaving the fantasy world of Pandora which included an alien language (thankfully I can now read the subtitles) it took a good while to reorient.

When you straddle two cultures and flip between a few languages it’s hard to figure where exactly you are. There’s a moment in the movie when Jake Sully contemplates which of his two existences was the “real” one. I know where he’s coming from.

So where am I? (Maybe I ought to have taken the blue pill)

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Highlights from Follow Sweden

20 things to know before moving to Sweden

As diverse as Sweden is, there are a few societal norms that are distinctly Swedish. Understanding a handful of them will hopefully prepare you culturally before you relocate. When you're invited home to a Swede, you better be on time and take your shoes off, writes expat Lola Akinmade-Åkerström. Read more »

How far can English take you in Sweden?

Sweden is a country where almost everyone can speak English. So why bother to learn Swedish? Edina Varnagy from Hungary managed with English for a whole year but then found that Swedish could open doors – to a job, a social life and greater understanding. Read more »

Blog Update: Julie's Nordic Island

12 February 21:30

The consciousness of one »

"The ice dripped in the winter sun. It was the first day when the light had been intense enough to cause dripping in the sunlight. To hear it was an extraordinary wakeup call. The cycle was happening again as it always does, always will (or so we think). I imagined that on my summer island, the bees..." READ »

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