• Sweden edition

Eating out with Alannah

A foodie's guide to where to wine and dine in Sweden - from low budget and fika spots to high class dining!

Not just another Japanese restaurant

February 28th, 2010 by alannah

The Seikoen Japanese restaurant across the street from the Sheraton Hotel at Tegelbacken was one of Stockholm’s first Japanese restaurants, set up long before the hordes of small sushi joints opened their doors on every other corner of the city.

It’s an elegant, authentic, understated kind of place with a calming atmosphere and offers everything from sushi to tempura and some not so very Japanese desserts like crème brulée and cloudberry cheesecake. It is part of the Roppongi chain of Japanese restaurants which also have restaurants in Kungsholmen and in the city center. Seikoen is also a firm favorite with traveling Japanese businessmen staying at the Sheraton.

There’s a five-course or seven-course set menu for SEK 520 and SEK 740 respectively (add on an extra SEK 280-380 for the wine/drinks menu). The five-course started off with oyster and tuna stomach, followed by an aemono set (three small dishes of spinach, crab meat and scallops and octopus), shrimp tempura, Yakiniku, and dessert.

I opted for the Japanese pumpkin soup which was excellent followed by shrimp tempura and truffles with coffee to top off. One member of the party chose the duck for the main course which he considered “chewy”.

My verdict? Pricey: a bit. Atmosphere: nice. Food: mine was very good. Service: not bad but could not understand the waitress. Overall impression: Would go back when another Japanese craving strikes. But I really wish they had a teppanyaki table too, that’s the one thing that’s missing!

P.s. their lunch menu and sushi is also great.

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Travel Lunch on the banks of Lake Vättern

February 22nd, 2010 by alannah

If you’re on the E4 headed from Stockholm to Malmö and bored with the selection of Burger Kings, Max Hamburgares and hot dogs at the monotonous gas stations along the route, check out Hotel Gyllene Uttern halfway between the two cities, on the banks of Lake Vättern for lunch.

Exterior of Hotel Gyllene Uttern

Built in the 1930s by Gyllensvaan, a cavalry captain, Hotel Gyllene Uttern was one of Sweden’s first motels. The first thing that strikes you is that it is a mish mash of different architectural styles – one part resembling English castle, another looking like a Swedish wooden cabin, all joined together in an imperfect but interesting way. And then from the restaurant there’s a vast panoramic view over the seemingly endless Lake Vättern.

Last week, when we stopped off for lunch on our way back to Stockholm from Malmö, there was around 30 cm of snow, gray skies and lumps of ice floating in the lake, but it still looked stunning so imagine how it looks basking in sunshine!

The à la carte lunch menu ranges from SEK 145 to SEK 285 but they do a special Travel Lunch in the Riddarsalen restaurant for around SEK 139. For your money, you’ll get the set dish of the day, an extensive salad buffet, water, tea/coffee and biscuits. It’s perfect for people on the road who want a wholesome lunch in a more elaborate atmosphere. And the food is pretty good – think home-cooked dishes served up by motherly, friendly waitresses. If you’ve got more time to spare and want to splash out, go for the à la carte menu. We enjoyed Wallenbergare (a Swedish veal meatball-like speciality) with potato gratin and lingonberries, accompanied with a crammed plate of salad and topped off with an excellent cup of strong coffee to keep us awake on the rest of our journey.

To find Hotel Gyllene Uttern, take the exit for Gränna/Gyllene Uttern, close to Jonköping, and it’s just 5 minutes off the highway on your left hand side.

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Craving Chinese during your shopping?

February 1st, 2010 by alannah

Downtown shopping and craving Chinese? Check out Chopsticks on Mäster Samuelsgatan. It’s  a welcome break from the shopping hordes on Drottninggatan and is just two minutes away from Åhléns City.

This Chinese restaurant on Mäster Samuelsgatan is not bad at all as downtown restaurants go, and after trying other city-center Chinese restaurants I have to say it’s become one of my regular takeaway spots.

 From the outside, it doesn’t look like the classiest joint in town and, inside, expect typical Chinese-restaurant-style décor – bamboo details, flowery prints and carpets – in other words, nothing out of the ordinary.  But once you’ve studied the menu, got a smile and greeting from the friendly waitresses and enjoyed your food, you’ll probably be pleasantly surprised. It may look like a budget kind of place on the outside but this is not reflected in the prices or the service which are mid-range and good respectively (from my experience). Main courses average around SEK 160.

There’s a great choice of all the usual dishes from Peking Duck to Won Ton soup, fried noodles and if you can’t decide on your order, go for the Chopsticks four-dish speciality which is a combination of shrimp, beef, chicken and pork. One of my favorites is the chicken with cashew nuts which is always delicious – a huge portion with a generous helping of chicken, peppers, bamboo, water chestnut and an even more generous helping of rice.

You can dine at Chopsticks or get a takeaway. Open for lunch and dinner.

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A touch of Moulin Rouge in Gamla Stan

January 28th, 2010 by alannah

After ploughing my way through the mass of snow that’s accumulated during the last 24 hours, I finally make it to Le Rouge/Le Bar on Österlånggatan in Gamla Stan. (Don’t mix this up with its sister – Le Rouge brasserie – which is just around the corner on Brunnsgränd).

 There’s a bar downstairs and hidden in the corner lurks a staircase to an upper floor which is a dining cum bar area. Everything is red or with red hues, velvety and plush and it reminds me of a Parisian bistro mixed with a scene from Moulin Rouge. That’s exactly what owners Daniel Couet and Melker Andersson are aiming for since opening the adjacent bar and restaurant in 2007.

The food menu in Le Rouge/Le Bar is scanty as it is, after all mainly a bar. There’s several French-inspired small dishes (assiettes) like mini croque monsieurs, mini pizzas and larger dishes like a plate of oysters and specialities of the day, which today is veal, gnocchi with gorgonzola, walnuts and pork and their in-house burger. Desserts include the usual favorites like crème brulée. Meanwhile, the drinks menu is quite extensive with everything from cocktails to beer. Expect to pay around SEK 100-140 for a glass of wine.  

So after trying to decide whether to order three of the small dishes (they start from around SEK 35), I opted for the hamburger which for SEK 185 was a touch on the pricey side. It comes in a wholemeal bread bun topped with fresh tomato, lettuce, melted cheese, onion and bacon with a generous portion of fries on the side. Unfortunately, it was also a bit on the raw side. The staff were friendly when I asked them to leave it in the pan a bit longer and voluntarily offered us a complimentary coffee as compensation at the end.

Service is “comme ci, comme ca” . The staff are very polite and friendly but once the place starts to fill up they disappear.  Once our food had been served, our wine glass was empty and the coffee cup drained, that was the last of our service (even though we sat there for another hour) until we waved our credit card around for five minutes to pay the bill.

To be honest, the burger wasn’t worth the money. For SEK 185 I would have expected a bit more. However, I would go back to Le Bar/Le Rouge for a cozy drink with a friend. It’s a nice place in the wintertime to chat over a glass or two of wine … and maybe a snack or two. But, I’m curious to check out the main Le Rouge restaurant.

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A Latvian dinner flies via Oslo to Afghanistan

December 1st, 2009 by alannah

In October, I enjoyed an eight-course meal at one of the best restaurants in the Baltic States, Vincents in Riga. (Read more here.) Today, I discovered that its owner and chef Martins Ritins recently cooked up a Latvian dinner in Afghanistan for Latvian and Norwegian soldiers, having personally flown there with more than 400 kg of fresh Latvian products!

Read about his experience below!

“On the 10th November, I and four of my chefs flew to Afghanistan  with more than 400 kg of fresh, seasonal produce grown by Latvian farmers to feed our troops. We landed at the army base of Meymaneh on the border of Tajikistan after a 20 hour journey via Oslo and immediately got to work unloading all the good food we had brought with us.

Kelmenes dark rye bread and Dundagas farm butter, hemp seeds, Latgales Rusonas cheese, Aizputes barley and white beans, wild salmon cured with beetroot and caraway, Initas caraway cheese and even pumpkin grown by Laima in Dobele. The list goes on. We brought as much as we could to give our brave soldiers a taste of home. We did have one major problem though, the traditional Martins day goose.

Because of red tape, geese cannot be exported from Latvia , so the only way we could have got them there was if they had flown in convoy behind our plane. Luckily, the Norwegians came to our rescue and provided us with geese which were almost as succulent as those we usually get from our own farmer, Mary.

I have always imagined an army kitchen to be one lone chef, peeling a mountain of potatoes. How wrong I was. They hadn’t even seen a fresh potato since their arrival at the base. We soon changed all that and after a lot of hard work, we served our Latvian soldiers and their Norwegian comrades with a feast that was worthy of them.

It was a phenomenal experience to see how our defense boys live in that far off, hostile country. A huge culture shock, which served to remind me that things here aren’t half as bad as we think they are. I am full of admiration for them all and would certainly be willing to repeat the experience and prepare another feast for them. I salute them all.

I am truly grateful to all the Slow Food farmers who donated so much of their fine produce. My heartfelt thanks to Mehmet of Frisch Paradise who provided me with 50kg fresh salmon at the very last minute so that we could cure it here at Vincents.

However, the very biggest thank you is reserved for Bertolt Flick, President of Air Baltic who flew us to Oslo and back, and handled the 400 kg of cargo. Without AirBaltic we would have got no further than Riga airport on the number 22 bus.”

See us in Afghanistan on: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lWkO4WK_hVI

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Back to a firm favorite…

November 30th, 2009 by alannah

Last night I dined again at Naglo, across the street from the Opera House. It’s fast becoming a firm favorite of mine … professional and quick service, cozy ambiance and tasty food. I’m becoming a sucker for their lobster soup with a splash of cream cheese and a parmesan crusty stick for a starter. Not to mention their salmon tapenade and their venison in red wine sauce for a main course. 

The owner is usually there so that could be an indication why the service is so good as he keeps the staff on their toes. They’re also generous with the coffee at the end – free refills as soon as your cup is empty. If you really want to splash out and beat the winter hunger, invest in their six-course menu which at SEK 755 is worth every penny.

Expect to pay SEK 1,000 for two glasses of Prosecco, two starters, two main courses, two glasses of wine and coffee. But, in my opinion, I’d prefer to pay this for a nice meal rather than SEK 700 for shabby service and mediocre food in a so-called “trendy place of the moment.”

Click here to read my previous post on Naglo.

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Stockholm’s two-star Michelin restaurant closing

November 5th, 2009 by alannah

Edsbacka Krog, one of only two Swedish restaurants currently in possession of two Michelin stars, is to close, the luxury Stockholm eatery said in a statement on Thursday. It closes its doors Feb 27, 2010 so there’s still some time left to try it out.

Click here to read the full story on The Local.

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The most expensive Brownie in town?

November 2nd, 2009 by alannah

On Saturday I paid SEK 87 for a Brownie with vanilla ice-cream in Grill Ruby in Stockholm’s Gamla Stan. Having ordered a coffee, I wanted something sweet on the side and asked the waitress if they had any cakes … she recommended the Brownie which I took without seeing a preview of the price.

It was delicious – warm, soft and chocolatey with a cute ball of icecream on top and I savoured every mouthful. Until the bill came and I discovered my five-minute Brownie session was going to set me back SEK 87, or approx EUR 9.

It was good but definitely too expensive. Even in the most touristy part of Stockholm, I cannot justify almost EUR 12 for a coffee and brownie. Luckily they at least gave us a free coffee refill.

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Food to make your mouth water

October 31st, 2009 by alannah

Fresh sea buckthorn berry sorbet made with liquid nitrogen, snails in a jar topped with a raw egg, and lamprey with chilli and mustard. That’s a sample of what you can expect at Vincents restaurant in Riga, one of the best restaurants in the Baltic States.

Last weekend I dined in Riga at Vincents restaurant – Riga’s culinary gem and probably one of the best restaurants in the Baltic States.

When booking I was informed we would have the special Latvian tasting menu which turned out to be an eight-course set menu, starting with parmesan flavored sticks and finishing up with a chocolate ice-cream which we struggled to finish. In between the culinary journey included salmon, pork, snails, Baltic Sea local fish like lamprey and herrings and waffles.

Sea buckthorn berry, a Baltic Sea speciality features heavily throughout the menu. It’s a bitter tasting orange berry which grows along the Baltic Sea coast and a few berries easily fill your recommended daily Vitamin C intake. One of the highlights of the meal came when the waitress placed a big steel bowl filled with sea buckthorn berries at the end of our table and whipped the berries up into a delicious sorbet by adding a flask of freezing cold liquid nitrogen.

Simplicity, fun and originality are the key word to sum up the menu at Vincent’s. Each course teased our taste-buds and we waited in suspense to see what was coming next and how it would be presented. You feel that the kitchen puts as much thought and creativity into the presentation of the food as into the fusion of flavours. For example, one of our three starters was herrings served in a small tin box; the snails appeared immersed in a soup in a small jar with a raw egg on the side to mix with the jar’s contents.

The food was exquisite, made from local Latvian ingredients and the dinner menu changes every week so it’s always a surprise as to what you’ll be served.

Vincents opened in 1994 and is owned by British-Latvian chef, Martins Ritins, who was born to Latvian parents in the UK and moved to Riga in 1991. Outside the toilet hangs a small photo gallery with pictures of Ritins and all the famous faces he’s met and cooked for – from politicians like President George W. Bush, Gerhard Schröder and Boris Yeltsin to royalty including Dutch Queen Beatrix and Britain’s Queen Elizabeth II and stars like Elton John, Paco Rabanne and Jose Carreras.

The restaurant is located on the distinguished Elizabetes street, in the basement of a nice Art Nouveau building but walk inside the door and the first thing that strikes you is the ambiance of blue lights, white decor and modern clean cut lines. Step into the next room behind the entrance and there is an alcove with a long table perfect for groups. Further behind is another room with a mirror at one end making it seem larger than it actually is.

The meal was one of the best I have had in several months and the service was ten times better than many of the “in” places in Stockholm. Our waitress was professional, friendly, knowledgeable about the food and spoke perfect English.

If you’re in Riga, this place is pricey but a perfect spot for a special occasion or to try some Baltic States ingredients. It’s the ideal place to disappear for a few hours during the long, dark winter nights – our eight-course menu took four hours but the time flew by.

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Armed robberies and burned down restaurants … in Sweden?

October 19th, 2009 by alannah

On Sunday night, armed robbers broke into Michelin-rated Sjömagasinet restaurant in Gothenburg, owned by renowned Swedish chef Leif Mannerström, stole SEK 50,000 and tied up the maître d’. A few weeks ago there was a Hollywood style helicopter raid at a cash depot in Stockholm. I called Kungsholmen restaurant in Stockholm, owned by Swedish celebrity chef Melker Andersson to make a reservation last week, to find it had burned down (strange how his other restaurant The Grill on Drottninggatan also burned down a few years ago!). Now this ..what’s happening to quiet, sleepy and safe Sweden? Click here to read the full story on The Local.

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