• Sweden edition

Eating out with Alannah

A foodie's guide to where to wine and dine in Sweden - from low budget and fika spots to high class dining!

Archive for May, 2009

Two “must eats” in Malmö

Friday, May 29th, 2009

Last year I lived in Malmö for one year and once I’d found my two favorite restaurants there, I stuck to them. A bit boring I know but considering the amount of times we went out to eat in Malmö, it meant we only ate there once a month, and not every week.

The first is Carib Kreol which is located on a sleepy backstreet and doesn´t look anything special on the outside. But step inside and it’s like entering another part of the world as dread-locked bartenders shake rum cocktails, waiters run around with corn fritters served with mango aioli dips and the aroma of Cajun chicken fills the air. It’s always busy so make sure you book a table in advance as this is really a popular local spot.

The second is La Couronne, a small French bistro located just off the main shopping street, just meters from Triangeln. A place which just like Carib Kreol looks like nothing special on the outside. But once inside, it’s a homely kind of place with checked tablecloths and super-friendly staff. The snails in garlic, stuffed duck with apricot and mussels are firm favourites of ours. And the bill won’t break the bank balance either.

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A walking dinner

Wednesday, May 27th, 2009

Bar hopping’s been a popular past-time for many years but restaurant hopping? Ever tried taking your starter in one restaurant, main course in another, dessert in yet another?

Well, we tried it out in Ghent, in the Flemish part of Belgium. The city boasts around 365 restaurants so picking just one for your dinner, if you are tight on time, can be problematic. Which is why Vizit (which operates throughout Belgium) has come up with a pretty cool concept for EUR 55– four different restaurants for your evening meal combined with a walking tour of the city with a guide. Our tour guide was a part-time rock musician, part-time tour guide, very sociable and very knowledgeable.

The only problem? I was still full from a three-course lunch and a beer tasting so I had to skip most of the meal. On hindsight, I would have saved my appetite for the dinner!

Haven’t heard of this concept in Stockholm but could be a great idea to do in certain neighborhoods – Östermalm, St Eriksplan, Södermalm, Gamla Stan …

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Brunch and Djurgården

Monday, May 25th, 2009

Weekend brunch at the Scandic Hasselbacken is not just an orgasmic experience for the taste buds, it’s also a great place to bring visitors, catch up with a group of friends or simply to start your day before taking a stroll around Djurgården.

hasselbacken-garden

The restaurant has views on to the garden.

I love weekend brunch at the Scandic Hasselbacken in Djurgården (close to Skansen) and have eaten there twice already this month. In the beginning, when I heard about brunch at a Scandic hotel, the first thought that went through my head was “Brunch in a Scandic Hotel …boring and probably the food is nothing special, just the standard hotel breakfast.” But their Saturday and Sunday brunch is probably one of the best, and healthiest, in town. It’s not your regular American fry-up brunch but you’ll still find old favorites like bacon and scrambled eggs.

What you’ll also find is a whole table dedicated to sill (herring) and a bigger table crammed with everything from smoked salmon, artichokes, tomato & mozzarella, lentils, pasta salads, cold meat cuts and cheeses. Then, there’s a fresh fruit platter, scones with whipped cream and jam and apple cake at the back of the buffet to finish up with your coffee. They also do this special homemade bread with dried fruit like apricots which is delicious. Coffee and water is included. The only thing I can find wrong with this great brunch spot is that you have to pay extra for juices which I think is a little stingy; they should include it in the brunch price (SEK 245) and let people pay extra for fresh squeezed juices.

Brunch is 12.00-16.00 Saturdays and Sundays and as it’s a popular spot, it’s best to call to reserve (08-517 34307).  But even if the restaurant is packed, there are never long queues for the buffet and the food’s restocked as fast as it’s finished.

Afterwards, why not take a walk around Djurgården or visit Skansen or some of the other cultural hotspots close by. Or, as one of my friends joked, if you feel really full afterwards, you could head for the rollercoaster at Gröna Lund to empty your stomach.

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Long lines at herring haven

Thursday, May 21st, 2009

Cool Stockholm recommends the Fried Herring wagon at Södermalms square for the best, and greatest variety, of herring in town. Herring burgers, fried herring and mashed potato or just a cup of coffee for SEK 10.

Click here to read more.

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Playing Ping Pong with Thai

Tuesday, May 19th, 2009

Stockholm has its fair share of Thai restaurants – some great, some “so so” and some just downright awful. Unfortunately, I have to say that I have given my local Pong takeaway and restaurant on Klara Tvärgränd (just off Drottninggatan) several chances every time I crave Tom Kha Ghai (chicken in coconut milk).

But every time I am disappointed – the last time there was only six measly pieces of chicken in my takeaway dish for my SEK 120. And I even had to ask the waitress to give me some rice with it. So instead, I decided to sit in-house and try out their buffet which at SEK 148 is not expensive but also not dirt cheap … for the quality of the food. To be honest, I probably wouldn’t complain if it was SEK 100 but SEK 148 is pushing the limits. And as for the service, this is just another reason to complain. The staff can be just downright unfriendly.

So, I’ll stick to the sushi at Pong’s other restaurant on the same street – just 50 meters away. It’s like day and night between Pong’s Thai and Pong’s sushi restaurants on Klara Tvärgrand. The staff in the sushi place are actually very friendly, quick and helpful. And the sushi is always great … SEK 95 for a Mama sushi with 8-10 pieces. Maybe the staff in the Thai place could pick up some quality and service skills from their neighbors!

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Åland Island cuisine – a pleasant surprise!

Sunday, May 17th, 2009

Food may not be the first thing that springs to mind when you think of the Åland Islands or if you do think food, you might think this Finnish owned, Swedish speaking, self-autonomous, seafaring island folk cook up a fusion of Finnish cuisine mixed with Swedish meatballs. Wrong!

I’m just back from a three-day trip to Åland where we tried everything from the local Åland svärtbrot (a dark, soft and moist bread which is slightly sweetened), salty cheese, home smoked salmon and pike perch from the clear Åland archipelago waters to havtorns marmelad (sea buckthorn berry jam), the local Stallhagen dark beer and home-brewed apple wine from Tjudö Vingård. Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to try another local speciality – the Åland Island pancake which is as far from the stereotypical pancake as you can get – it’s like a cake made from rice or semolina and served with stewed prunes and whipped cream. It’s on my “to do” list next time I visit the islands.

I was so taken with the local delicacies that I filled my suitcase up with the jam, dark bread and apple wine to take home for my friends and family to taste.

The much-loved Åland pancake. If the stewed prunes don't do it for you, try it with a local jam instead!

 

 

And the restaurants on Åland are not half-bad either! My personal favourite was ÅSS, a stone’s throw from the Viking Line terminal at Mariehamn. Owned by Michael Björklund, one of Scandinavia’s most famous chefs and a native Ålander, in 1997 at the tender age of 22 he was named chef of the year in Finland. Three years later Sweden bestowed the same honor on him!

His speciality is New Scandinavian Cuisine and at my lunch on Friday I tried out his sesame salmon on a bed of couscous and boiled vegetables, with a side salad. Simple but delicious. There’s no pomp or airs and graces about this local celebrity, his restaurant is a simple red rustic wooden building perched on the waterfront with a lovely outdoor terrace and a cozy ambience. The lunchtime prices are good value for money. If you’re in Mariehamn with a few hours to kill, stop by for lunch, dinner or a mid-afternoon snack!

apple-wine1

 

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Cocoa sniffing and Choc-tails in Belgium

Tuesday, May 12th, 2009
Well, I’ve disappeared for a few days due to a three-day trip to Flanders in Belgium where I was sated with three-course lunches, beer tastings, chocolate testings and four-course walking dinners. After the first day of eating three times my normal daily food intake, I skipped breakfast still feeling full from my wholesome beef steak the night before. On the second day, I had to skip dinner still feeling full from my three-course lunch and an afternoon beer tasting with cheese dipped in celery salt and Dijon mustard snacks. By the third day, I struggled to look at a menu and even though it all sounded good, for once my eyes were smaller than my stomach.
 
Are the portions of food really so small in Sweden that I got “food overload” in Belgium? Or am I simply poorly trained to eat such gigantic portions of food? Or is home-grown Belgian cuisine simply just too much for those of us who are used to a sandwich for lunch and sometimes, sushi or a Thai takeaway for dinner?

Our tour guide in Ghent, a town in Flanders, put it well when he said on Thursday, “Flemish food is Germanic portions with French quality.”

Belgium may be famous for Tintin and being the heartbeat of the EU but it’s even more famous for mussels, beer and chocolates.

img_17202And yes, it is a chocaholic’s paradise! Especially The Chocolate Line in downtown Brugge run by Dominique Persoone, a well-known chocolate chef, who definitely counts as one of the most interesting and creative chocolate chefs I’ve ever met … not to mention one of the most charismatic.

He dazzled our tastebuds with a Choc-tail – Costa Rican 64% bitter chocolate ganache with lime pipette filled with tequila silver and Maldon crystal salt. How do you devour it? Simple. Lick the salt, squeeze the pipette on to your tongue and finish up by swallowing the chocolate. Even though Tequila turns my stomach, the experience is something truly memorable. Forget dark chocolate flavoured with chilli pepper, think chocolate mixed with basil flavours, smoked cocoa (cocoa beans smoked with rosemary and Herbes de Provence) and Oud Sluis caramel, which mixes Cabernet Sauvignon vinegar and a praliné of pine nuts. Truly exotic and unforgettable. But even the most sceptical non-chocolate lovers, couldn’t help but be impressed by his sniff cocoa – sniffing cocoa with ginger and mint to get a kick and enhance the chocolate experience. But don’t worry, it really is just cocoa powder.

img_17242

Part II about Belgian cuisine coming soon!

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Lebanese at Underbar

Monday, May 4th, 2009

Took a late dinner after the movies at Underbar on the “nice” end of Drottninggatan (i.e. away from the tourist belt close to Gamla Stan) on Saturday night.

From the outside, Underbar looks like a nice, cozy restaurant but small. And it is small .. and cozy … and nice. There’s not a lot of space inside but it’s tastefully designed and, surprisingly, for 21.00 on a Saturday night we got a table straight away. (Probably because it was a bank holiday weekend and all the locals were out of town; tourists don’t really head up that end of Drottninggatan so often, unless they get lost!).

Well, what can I say … it’s Lebanese food and plenty of meze. It still doesn’t beat Beirut Cafe over in Östemalm (or the Middle East’s authentic restaurants) but the food is pretty good and nicely presented, great atmosphere and decor and friendly staff. Tried out the scampi in garlic and chili, shrimps in filo pastry, halloumi cheese, hummus and Lebanese beer and wine. All pretty good.

A nice spot to go if you are close to Drottninggatan and want a romantic dinner with someone special, or a cozy venue to have a chat with some good friends.

Contact details: Drottninggatan 102. Tel: 08-10 11 16

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Eating out on Valborg …don’t do it!

Friday, May 1st, 2009

mussels-500

Last night I skipped the Valborg bonfire party and went for a quiet dinner with two friends at Belgobaren near Vasagatan.  Big mistake!

Normally Belgobaren is one of my favorite dining spots - it’s a 10-minute walk from my home, is always busy,  the mussels are pretty tasty and they have a great selection of Belgian beers. (Even non-beer lovers like me can appreciate a glass of Leffe Blonde which at 6.6% always leaves me feeling a bit tipsy.) Each beer is served in a different style glass, just like in Belgium.

But sadly tonight I have to say the food was disappointing. The super-friendly waitress already informed us when we were ordering that the food could take a while because, surprisingly, they had much more diners than they expected on Valborg night. So I guess the only chef working was being run off his feet. But she stocked us up with bread and tapenade and drinks so we wouldn’t go hungry.

Well, all I can say is I’m not so sure I will eat out in a restaurant in Stockholm again on Valborg night after my experience last night. Our mussels were cold, dry and not half as good as usual. My friend’s pike perch was tasteless.

It’s quite simple – we should have gone outdoors to eat in a park close to a bonfire like the Swedes! Then we wouldn’t have anything to complain about. This was our punishment for not celebrating one of the great Scandinavian pagan days in traditional style. Instead we chose to dine out, making more work for the restaurant staff and delaying their escape to the bonfire. The full lights even came on in the restaurant at around 22.30 – the final warning that we had overstayed our welcome and that we should think about leaving!

But I still recommend trying out Belgobaren … their 1 kg of mussels with fries – especially the  ”Belgobaren Classic” – are usually pretty good washed down by a Leffe Blonde. If you’re not into mussels, there’s plenty of other stuff on the menu like a seafood stew, fish, beef etc.

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