Eating out with Alannah

A foodie's guide to where to wine and dine in Sweden - from low budget and fika spots to high class dining!

Archive for October, 2009

Food to make your mouth water

Saturday, October 31st, 2009

Fresh sea buckthorn berry sorbet made with liquid nitrogen, snails in a jar topped with a raw egg, and lamprey with chilli and mustard. That’s a sample of what you can expect at Vincents restaurant in Riga, one of the best restaurants in the Baltic States.

Last weekend I dined in Riga at Vincents restaurant – Riga’s culinary gem and probably one of the best restaurants in the Baltic States.

When booking I was informed we would have the special Latvian tasting menu which turned out to be an eight-course set menu, starting with parmesan flavored sticks and finishing up with a chocolate ice-cream which we struggled to finish. In between the culinary journey included salmon, pork, snails, Baltic Sea local fish like lamprey and herrings and waffles.

Sea buckthorn berry, a Baltic Sea speciality features heavily throughout the menu. It’s a bitter tasting orange berry which grows along the Baltic Sea coast and a few berries easily fill your recommended daily Vitamin C intake. One of the highlights of the meal came when the waitress placed a big steel bowl filled with sea buckthorn berries at the end of our table and whipped the berries up into a delicious sorbet by adding a flask of freezing cold liquid nitrogen.

Simplicity, fun and originality are the key word to sum up the menu at Vincent’s. Each course teased our taste-buds and we waited in suspense to see what was coming next and how it would be presented. You feel that the kitchen puts as much thought and creativity into the presentation of the food as into the fusion of flavours. For example, one of our three starters was herrings served in a small tin box; the snails appeared immersed in a soup in a small jar with a raw egg on the side to mix with the jar’s contents.

The food was exquisite, made from local Latvian ingredients and the dinner menu changes every week so it’s always a surprise as to what you’ll be served.

Vincents opened in 1994 and is owned by British-Latvian chef, Martins Ritins, who was born to Latvian parents in the UK and moved to Riga in 1991. Outside the toilet hangs a small photo gallery with pictures of Ritins and all the famous faces he’s met and cooked for – from politicians like President George W. Bush, Gerhard Schröder and Boris Yeltsin to royalty including Dutch Queen Beatrix and Britain’s Queen Elizabeth II and stars like Elton John, Paco Rabanne and Jose Carreras.

The restaurant is located on the distinguished Elizabetes street, in the basement of a nice Art Nouveau building but walk inside the door and the first thing that strikes you is the ambiance of blue lights, white decor and modern clean cut lines. Step into the next room behind the entrance and there is an alcove with a long table perfect for groups. Further behind is another room with a mirror at one end making it seem larger than it actually is.

The meal was one of the best I have had in several months and the service was ten times better than many of the “in” places in Stockholm. Our waitress was professional, friendly, knowledgeable about the food and spoke perfect English.

If you’re in Riga, this place is pricey but a perfect spot for a special occasion or to try some Baltic States ingredients. It’s the ideal place to disappear for a few hours during the long, dark winter nights – our eight-course menu took four hours but the time flew by.

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Armed robberies and burned down restaurants … in Sweden?

Monday, October 19th, 2009

On Sunday night, armed robbers broke into Michelin-rated Sjömagasinet restaurant in Gothenburg, owned by renowned Swedish chef Leif Mannerström, stole SEK 50,000 and tied up the maître d’. A few weeks ago there was a Hollywood style helicopter raid at a cash depot in Stockholm. I called Kungsholmen restaurant in Stockholm, owned by Swedish celebrity chef Melker Andersson to make a reservation last week, to find it had burned down (strange how his other restaurant The Grill on Drottninggatan also burned down a few years ago!). Now this ..what’s happening to quiet, sleepy and safe Sweden? Click here to read the full story on The Local.

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Two stars for five-star “service”

Sunday, October 11th, 2009

Most locals fondly remember the old Lydmar Hotel which was close to Stureplan, across the street from Humlegården and the Scandic Anglais hotel - a place which was always bustling, with good bar staff and great live music.  Today, that Lydmar has been converted into energy company Vattenfall’s head office and there is a new Lydmar located between the Grand Hotel and the National Museum. It’s a beautiful elegant building from the outside and inside it’s fresh, modern and chic with a combined bar and restaurant looking like a scene out of a living room with library.

We checked it out last night for a drink and I have to say that the service and bar menu was anything but special. We sat at the bar (which resembles a kitchen table) and waited 10 minutes before getting served. When I asked for a bar menu as I wanted to choose a cocktail, the bar girl told me they had no bar menu (imagine a top-class bar without a wine and cocktail menu) so I opted for a Gin & Tonic while my friend had a Tom Collins.  The G&T was fine but the Tom Collins tasted more of lemon juice and soda than an alcoholic beverage. Behind the bar, a DJ rummaged around in a box looking for music with his back to everyone and a bartender shook cocktails looking like he would prefer to be anywhere else rather than standing there that night.

We sat with empty glasses for 15 minutes trying to catch the bartenders’ eye to order a new drink. In the end we gave up and spent another 10 minutes trying to pay. Wanting to leave, we headed out towards the door which finally provoked a response and the bargirl came running after us to tell us that “It’s illegal to leave a bar in Sweden without paying.” Oh really! Of course, we paid up. SEK 220 for two drinks which were less than impressive, service that sucked …definitely not worth it! If I am going to pay that kind of money for two drinks (and yes, of course, cocktails and drinks in Sweden are always pricey) and decide to go to a nice place for a nice drink, I am prepared to pay that price for a nice atmosphere and experience. But, unfortunately, our drinks last night at Lydmar were anything but an experience …albeit a bad one! If I go five-star, I expect five-star service and treatment, not 2.5 stars.

My plan was to go back sometime for dinner but I don’t think that’s going to happen now. If anyone as dined there, please share your experiences with me!

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Texas Burger Co – good burgers at a good price!

Saturday, October 10th, 2009

Located on the upper floor of the ever-bustling Kungshallen, this no-frills spot has great burgers at a great price. The California burger with avocado and salsa or the bacon and blue cheese burger are worth coming back for every time. Served with fries and coleslaw in a stainless steel basket. Burgers from SEK 80. It’s a good spot to grab something to eat before heading across the road to the Sergel cinema by the  Konserthuset.

Texas Burger Co, Kungshallen, Kungsgatan 44. Tel +46 8 226040

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The “other” restaurant by the opera house

Tuesday, October 6th, 2009
Inside Naglo.

Inside Naglo.

I’ve walked past Naglo restaurant, opposite the Opera House, probably 50 times in the past 8 months but last night I finally made it inside for dinner. Now, I’m wondering why I waited so long!

From the outside, it looks like a subtle, elegant and sophisticated establishment and that’s exactly what it is inside too with its wallpapered walls, long open windows, a round wooden bar  and chic, but understated, atmosphere. It’s an upmarket kind of place but without the wannabes and without trying too hard to be super-trendy. This is the kind of place to dine before a night at the opera or at the theatre, for a romantic dinner or even to impress business contacts as the service is quick and professional.

Chef Jacob Undemo’s experience includes stints at Högfjällshotellet in Hemavan and various restaurants in Sydney, New York and Paris. His menu includes main courses like corn-fed chicken with spring onion and asparagus risotto, herring stuffed with smoked salmon and beef Rydberg, while there is an “evening fare” menu which offers three-course set menus for SEK 375 and less fancy main dishes like meatballs and Caesar salad for around SEK 140 and SEK 120 respectively. If you’re really ravenous, there’s a six-course menu.

I opted for the lobster soup for a starter and corn-fed chicken with risotto for main course, while my boyfriend took the set menu with lobster mousse for starter and veal for the main course followed by vanilla mousse with forest berries. Both choices were excellent.

Monday evenings in general are quiet in many Stockholm restaurants and Naglo is no exception with no reservation necessary. If you feel like continuing with a drink afterwards but not walking too far, Naglo’s Vodkabar, just around the corner,  is a tiny little bar (probably one of the smallest in Stockholm!) which, of course, specializes in vodka – with over 70 different vodka brands to choose from.

I’ll definitely be back to Naglo again.

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Blog Update: Wine Freedom - Vinfrihet

22 March 10:31

Book a time for service »

"When I studied at Stockholm University I was exposed to the telephone time concept. If you wanted to talk to a teacher you had to only call during certain times and visit them during certain times. Even if they were in their office with the door open you could not knock and talk to them..." READ »

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