• Sweden edition

Eating out with Alannah

A foodie's guide to where to wine and dine in Sweden - from low budget and fika spots to high class dining!

Archive for the ‘Uncategorized’ Category

A touch of Moulin Rouge in Gamla Stan

Thursday, January 28th, 2010

After ploughing my way through the mass of snow that’s accumulated during the last 24 hours, I finally make it to Le Rouge/Le Bar on Österlånggatan in Gamla Stan. (Don’t mix this up with its sister – Le Rouge brasserie – which is just around the corner on Brunnsgränd).

 There’s a bar downstairs and hidden in the corner lurks a staircase to an upper floor which is a dining cum bar area. Everything is red or with red hues, velvety and plush and it reminds me of a Parisian bistro mixed with a scene from Moulin Rouge. That’s exactly what owners Daniel Couet and Melker Andersson are aiming for since opening the adjacent bar and restaurant in 2007.

The food menu in Le Rouge/Le Bar is scanty as it is, after all mainly a bar. There’s several French-inspired small dishes (assiettes) like mini croque monsieurs, mini pizzas and larger dishes like a plate of oysters and specialities of the day, which today is veal, gnocchi with gorgonzola, walnuts and pork and their in-house burger. Desserts include the usual favorites like crème brulée. Meanwhile, the drinks menu is quite extensive with everything from cocktails to beer. Expect to pay around SEK 100-140 for a glass of wine.  

So after trying to decide whether to order three of the small dishes (they start from around SEK 35), I opted for the hamburger which for SEK 185 was a touch on the pricey side. It comes in a wholemeal bread bun topped with fresh tomato, lettuce, melted cheese, onion and bacon with a generous portion of fries on the side. Unfortunately, it was also a bit on the raw side. The staff were friendly when I asked them to leave it in the pan a bit longer and voluntarily offered us a complimentary coffee as compensation at the end.

Service is “comme ci, comme ca” . The staff are very polite and friendly but once the place starts to fill up they disappear.  Once our food had been served, our wine glass was empty and the coffee cup drained, that was the last of our service (even though we sat there for another hour) until we waved our credit card around for five minutes to pay the bill.

To be honest, the burger wasn’t worth the money. For SEK 185 I would have expected a bit more. However, I would go back to Le Bar/Le Rouge for a cozy drink with a friend. It’s a nice place in the wintertime to chat over a glass or two of wine … and maybe a snack or two. But, I’m curious to check out the main Le Rouge restaurant.

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The most expensive Brownie in town?

Monday, November 2nd, 2009

On Saturday I paid SEK 87 for a Brownie with vanilla ice-cream in Grill Ruby in Stockholm’s Gamla Stan. Having ordered a coffee, I wanted something sweet on the side and asked the waitress if they had any cakes … she recommended the Brownie which I took without seeing a preview of the price.

It was delicious – warm, soft and chocolatey with a cute ball of icecream on top and I savoured every mouthful. Until the bill came and I discovered my five-minute Brownie session was going to set me back SEK 87, or approx EUR 9.

It was good but definitely too expensive. Even in the most touristy part of Stockholm, I cannot justify almost EUR 12 for a coffee and brownie. Luckily they at least gave us a free coffee refill.

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Armed robberies and burned down restaurants … in Sweden?

Monday, October 19th, 2009

On Sunday night, armed robbers broke into Michelin-rated Sjömagasinet restaurant in Gothenburg, owned by renowned Swedish chef Leif Mannerström, stole SEK 50,000 and tied up the maître d’. A few weeks ago there was a Hollywood style helicopter raid at a cash depot in Stockholm. I called Kungsholmen restaurant in Stockholm, owned by Swedish celebrity chef Melker Andersson to make a reservation last week, to find it had burned down (strange how his other restaurant The Grill on Drottninggatan also burned down a few years ago!). Now this ..what’s happening to quiet, sleepy and safe Sweden? Click here to read the full story on The Local.

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Two stars for five-star “service”

Sunday, October 11th, 2009

Most locals fondly remember the old Lydmar Hotel which was close to Stureplan, across the street from Humlegården and the Scandic Anglais hotel - a place which was always bustling, with good bar staff and great live music.  Today, that Lydmar has been converted into energy company Vattenfall’s head office and there is a new Lydmar located between the Grand Hotel and the National Museum. It’s a beautiful elegant building from the outside and inside it’s fresh, modern and chic with a combined bar and restaurant looking like a scene out of a living room with library.

We checked it out last night for a drink and I have to say that the service and bar menu was anything but special. We sat at the bar (which resembles a kitchen table) and waited 10 minutes before getting served. When I asked for a bar menu as I wanted to choose a cocktail, the bar girl told me they had no bar menu (imagine a top-class bar without a wine and cocktail menu) so I opted for a Gin & Tonic while my friend had a Tom Collins.  The G&T was fine but the Tom Collins tasted more of lemon juice and soda than an alcoholic beverage. Behind the bar, a DJ rummaged around in a box looking for music with his back to everyone and a bartender shook cocktails looking like he would prefer to be anywhere else rather than standing there that night.

We sat with empty glasses for 15 minutes trying to catch the bartenders’ eye to order a new drink. In the end we gave up and spent another 10 minutes trying to pay. Wanting to leave, we headed out towards the door which finally provoked a response and the bargirl came running after us to tell us that “It’s illegal to leave a bar in Sweden without paying.” Oh really! Of course, we paid up. SEK 220 for two drinks which were less than impressive, service that sucked …definitely not worth it! If I am going to pay that kind of money for two drinks (and yes, of course, cocktails and drinks in Sweden are always pricey) and decide to go to a nice place for a nice drink, I am prepared to pay that price for a nice atmosphere and experience. But, unfortunately, our drinks last night at Lydmar were anything but an experience …albeit a bad one! If I go five-star, I expect five-star service and treatment, not 2.5 stars.

My plan was to go back sometime for dinner but I don’t think that’s going to happen now. If anyone as dined there, please share your experiences with me!

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Cafés with the cozy factor

Wednesday, September 16th, 2009

Dark winters have turned Swedes into experts at finding ways to be cozy. They can curl up for hours with a hot cup of tea, or take long walks in the park. And just try to find a good Stockholm café that doesn’t set out candles and an inviting assortment of warm pillows and blankets when autumn arrives. Here are some tips on cafés in Stockholm where the coziness setting is on high.

Click here to discover the Stockholm Tourist Board’s selection of coziest cafés.

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From Paris to Germany and Malta

Sunday, August 2nd, 2009

During the past three weeks I’ve escaped the ‘on-off’ Scandinavian summer weather to spend my vacation in France, Germany and Malta enjoying bottles of Bordeaux wines in Parisian bistros, American-style dining at Disneyland Paris, bratwursts and sauerkraut in Germany and right now, pastizzis and pasta in Malta.

The weirdest food experience so far has to be Disneyland Paris where restaurants and menus cater (obviously) for families and kids … in the Disney Village there’s a Konig Ludwig Bavarian castle where you would expect to be served German cuisine but no, it’s half roasted chickens with chips, steaks and the occasional Frankfurter. Inside the Disneyland park the collection of themed restaurants – everything from Pirates of the Caribbean spots to Wild Western saloons and steakhouses – despite their different decor all offer the same kind of food so if you don’t like hotdogs, steaks, chicken wings or burgers, bring your own! We dined at Walt’s on Disneyland’s “Main Street” – a charming colonial style New England style wooden house with pretty good (and healthy) food. It’s probably the most upmarket restaurant in the park.

Paris didn’t disappoint me, well not the wines anyway and certainly not the fantastic pastries and croissants. Yet the very best meal we had during our three-day stay was a self-prepared picnic on the Sacre Coeur hilltop overlooking the city and enjoying a spectacular sunset, just like the locals. We scoured a downtown supermarket and raided their impressive cheese counter to put together our own picnic. Smoked brie, Camembert, fresh goat’s cheese and newly baked baguettes washed down with some great local Rose wines …. fantastic! If you’re a cheese addict like me, this is heaven!

Another taste of heaven … chocolate eclairs with a cafe au lait at a cafe close to the Opera in the center. The French certainly know how to make great croissants and even greater eclairs, not to mention the macaroons!

From Paris to Germany and wholesome hearty meals with bratwursts, plenty of pork, kartoffeln (potatoes) and hefty portions of cheesecake and plum cakes. Huge portions of food at a price that won’t make a hole in your wallet with alcohol (spirits, wines, beers etc) costing less than half the price of their counterpart in Sweden.

And now, I’m enjoying the scorching heat in Malta where pasta joints and pizzerias and English breakfasts have taken over the local menus but you’ll still find the occasional local dish like rabbit stew here and there. Portions are big, prices are good and you’ll need to know a few locals to find the real hidden restaurant gems as for every excellent restaurant, there’s also a tourist trap!

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Too drunk to cook?

Thursday, July 16th, 2009

Check out this stand-up cooking comedy with Swedish comedian Mårten Andersson and chef Nizar Achmad. A drunken chef forcing a stand-up comedian to eat oysters and dissect lobsters … and more.

View the video on www.coolstockholm.se

Cooking With Nizar & Mårten Andersson

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Sushi for Midsummer

Saturday, June 20th, 2009

Well, I’ve just finished up my four-course Midsummer dinner at Yasuragi and lounging on a recliner by the pool looking out the window at the drizzle and dark clouds, I’m quite happy I chose Japanese hot tubs, Qi Gong sessions and sushi indoors rather than a schnapps drinking picnic/barbeque in the forest!!

Surprisingly – or perhaps not quite so surprising, given the usual Midsummer weather forecast – quite a few Swedes and tourists had the same idea as me and Yasuragi was pretty full.

And now to the menu.  Dinner was served in Restaurant Tokyo which is good, but not as impressive as their in-house Teppanyaki restaurant which is superb.

It started with sushi – nigiri with char (röding) and crass  - followed by salad with lobster and wasabi crème; grilled entrecote with fried rice balls, asparagus and ginger-flavored tzatziki; and finishing up with lime mousse with raspberry brûlée and chocolate base. Not a trace of traditional Swedish Midsummer food in sight!

My verdict? Beautifully presented, the sushi was excellent as was the dessert and salad. I was just a bit disappointed with the entrecote. And after my busy afternoon schedule doing laps of the pool, steaming in the sauna and nibbling in between on fruit and spirulina tea in the spa, I was ravenously hungry and in need of more carbs! So luckily, I had a few snacks in my room to fill up my growling stomach.

But, the Midsummer package at Yasuragi was definitely worth it, despite the entrecote and midnight snacks!

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Highlights from Follow Sweden

20 things to know before moving to Sweden

As diverse as Sweden is, there are a few societal norms that are distinctly Swedish. Understanding a handful of them will hopefully prepare you culturally before you relocate. When you're invited home to a Swede, you better be on time and take your shoes off, writes expat Lola Akinmade-Åkerström. Read more »

How far can English take you in Sweden?

Sweden is a country where almost everyone can speak English. So why bother to learn Swedish? Edina Varnagy from Hungary managed with English for a whole year but then found that Swedish could open doors – to a job, a social life and greater understanding. Read more »

Blog Update: Julie's Nordic Island

12 February 21:30

The consciousness of one »

"The ice dripped in the winter sun. It was the first day when the light had been intense enough to cause dripping in the sunlight. To hear it was an extraordinary wakeup call. The cycle was happening again as it always does, always will (or so we think). I imagined that on my summer island, the bees..." READ »

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