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Archive for the ‘Tourism’ Category

After the rain

Tuesday, June 5th, 2012

early summer after the rain

Click! Click! Click! Once again, Ellie the dog and I have been immortalized in a Chinese photo album. The Eastern visitors in the park find us to be an object of fascination. I am uncertain as to why. Perhaps it is the sight of a defenseless woman having the guts (or the stupidity) to walk a fearsome black canine. While the Chinese tourists photograph Ellie, they indicate clearly that they’d prefer not to greet her.

Cultural attitudes towards animals run strong. A friend of mine from Paraguay reminds me of why I’ve never warmed up to cats. Growing up in developing countries with a lot of rabid strays around – deserted scavengers that hiss and scratch to survive – hasn’t cultivated a warm and loving instinct towards our feline friends.

“Whä di Chinaaa Palace?” asks one of the Chinese tourists while taking a snap of us. Bewildered as to why someone from China might have come all this way to see a Swedish King’s imitation Chinese leisure house, I point to the hill behind the long row of fountains. The tourist and his fellow travellers turn immediately and shuffle rapidly in that direction. I think of shouting out that it will be open for a few more hours (it’s only 9 in the morning), but sense that this piece of information may be in vain. The gaggle of tourists is already snapping its cameras half way up the hill to the China Palace.

It’s been a week of worries in the rain. Precipitation and cold as we pass into June is enough to send most of us in Sweden to the psychiatrist. The Euro crisis, the neo-Nazis in Hamburg, bisphenols in our packaged food and even global warming (although it hasn’t seemed evident during the past week) begin to seem like walls closing in on us.

Then the sky begins to break up and this morning the sun shoots through the linden alleys at the Palace. The lilac, which has been drenched in rain and now the goodness of the sun, lives up in its own sensuous perfume. The rhododendrons strike me as the underside of a ballerina’s tutu. In fact, it is not hard to understand why flowers are associated with women: their various shapes mirror the shape of clothing we have worn over time. Everywhere there are blossoms spilling over the fences and into places that are supposedly out-of-bounds. The early summer pushes out limitations and breaks them down. Everything is possible, solvable, doable.

The transformation of my week by the drying up of the rain and the return of the sun’s rays on the early summer blossoms is a reminder of how little we need to change our perception of things. Whole realities can be transformed by small adjustments. Sometimes our inbuilt volatility can be frightening: on one day the world can be black, and on the next it can be white. On the whole, though, I take our capacity to rapidly change the way we see things as hopeful. The greatest of all dangers lies, after all, in stagnancy and intransigence.

The Chinese tourists are done exploring King Adolf Frederik’s Chinese Pavilion, a small “birthday gift” to his wife Ulrika Lovisa. Each of them has got at least a hundred snaps of it. While I am quite sure that Ellie and I will quickly be deleted from the collection that gets shared with relatives back home in China, perhaps just one more look at the image of the friendly black dog will be enough to shift some attitudes. It only takes the memory of a little wag of the tail to move mountains.

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Living in Sweden? Take advantage of the special offer available on Julie’s books just now by visiting www.julielindahl.com. If you live elsewhere, visit the site to learn about where you can purchase her newest award-winning book, “Rose in the Sand” about a decade lived on a Swedish island.

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A Swede in Africa

Friday, November 4th, 2011

“Is it cold outside today?” my daughter asked. It seemed on odd question, taking into account that outside the glass door to the terrace we were in deepest Africa. Inside, the air conditioning guarded our European sweat pores so that life retained the illusion of being temperate and dry. Outside today the storm clouds had gathered. To the naked Swedish eye, the scene did not have the look of warmth. Clouds and wind meant a chill, and so my daughter looked into her suitcase and scrambled around for a cotton sweater with a hood.

”It’s alright, it’s very warm out,” I promised, knowing from years of living and working in the tropics that what she really needed was a T-shirt and a wide-brimmed hat. I’m ”Swedish” but my life’s journey to becoming so has had me in more than a few places where people know that there is no point in working at midday. Yet, my daughter (and her twin brother) are born and bred where wind and rain means a chill, and it was thus I realized I had on my hands two Swedes in Africa.

”I feel like I am in an advertisement,” my son proclaimed, as he sat sipping out of a coconut I had ordered him for breakfast. I knew that he had in mind the Maria Montazami travel adverts, which have prompted many Swedes who can afford it scrambling to book a trip South. On reflection, he had a fair point. To a Swede it just didn’t seem real that life could be so effortless: the coconuts dropped off the trees everywhere, one hacked them open and there was breakfast; the airy breakfast room was a stretch of beach with a collection of chairs and tables covered by a thick canvas. There were no boots at the door; no scarves, hats and gloves to take into account before stepping out again.

Behind the hotel, away from the immaculate stretch of beach, were some less natural looking child entertainments. To me, they had the rusty look of installations that didn’t work most of the time, but the children insisted on having a look. Gathered around the entrance to the go-cart track and, next door, at the entrance to the water park, were gatherings of young African men responsible for these installations. They chatted and laughed casually with the ease and rhythm of an African dance, as they sat in a circle, the thought of urgency far away in the stressed reality of people from Europe. Although I had already anticipated their answers, I asked the men whether the go-cart track would be open today. ”Welcome back, madame,” they said, ”it is not good because of the rain – maybe in a few days when it is dry.” At first the children wondered why these men didn’t just call the repair people, but then their Swedish sense of environmental responsibility kicked in, and they concluded that it was very good that the men decided to wait and let the sun take care of the problem naturally instead.

We returned to the beach and saw the fishing boats heading out to sea for the evening. The men in rags seemed accustomed as their tiny open boats rose up high on the waves and then fell. Some of them had hoisted a hand-made sail in the hope that the force of the wind would speed them along to prime fishing areas before their competitors got there. In the morning each of these men would walk down the beach with one or two fish in hand, and one wondered whether this was the source of their livelihood for the day. My husband, who is a Swede like his children, commented that although he always enjoyed the people and scenery of Africa (where he had worked many times), he found it difficult to see the terrible inequalities. For this reason, he could not imagine living here. I had been raised in many places characterized by such inequalities, but I realized that living in Sweden had made me more conscious of how unjust life was for so many. It struck me that living in a country where a politician cannot even get away with the tax payer covering the cost of a toblerone, has definitely reshaped the way I see things. Maybe I too have become a Swede in Africa.

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Learn more about Julie Lindahl’s prize-winning new book, “Rose in the Sand,” a memoir of a decade lived on a Swedish island. Other books by Julie Lindahl available are: Letters from the Island (listen also to Julie’s podcasts from this site) and On My Swedish Island: Discovering the Secrets of Scandinavian Well-being.

Julie Lindahl is chairperson at Stories for Society, a non-profit organization dedicated to learning and communication through storytelling.

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Crossing the Barriers

Monday, November 16th, 2009
A Viking happy to muddle through in Swinglish

A Viking happy to muddle through in Swinglish

Language isn’t generally given it’s due credit as an essential dimension of personal wellbeing. After 5 days in Paris, however, I’ve been reminded that our capacity to communicate with one another easily and thereby to get past the stereotypes of one another’s cultures, is absolutely critical to how we feel about where we are.

I’ve got a bit of French buried in there somewhere after studying it for a term and I did start life in a Latin language (Portuguese). Still, I found it difficult to enjoy some of France’s greatest national monuments, arguably some of the world’s greatest, without any English translations available to read. I stood in front of the Mona Lisa only being able to offer her a smile back but unable to learn more on the spot about what makes this small, dark portrait so famous. At the world’s richest collection of items from the French Revolution, a young ’student of history supervising the museum visitors shook her head at the number of times it had been necessary to repeat that, “yes, those are the clothes worn by Marie Antoinettes’ children during their imprisonment”. It isn’t the sort of thing you want to have to say fifty times a day.

During my visit, there were displays of modesty, such as this one and very many expressions of frustration at the inability to cross linguistic borders. A woman working in the post office nearly had cardiac arrest over my inability to understand how much it cost to send a postcard to Sweden. A waitress looked like she had bitten into a dry baguette when I was unable to understand that the restaurant had run out of croissants. I ended the day feeling like Rowan Atkinson, who in his irresistible sketch of the devil, welcomes the French (and the Germans) to hell.

Sure, I should take responsibility for the fact that I cannot speak French and learn it. At the same time I seem to recall that even on the remote island of Adelsö near my summer island, the signs include English language explanations of the Viking remains. The peoples of the North have a streak of practicality in their culture which says that you can’t make visitors work that hard. Sweden is a small country and perhaps this is another explanation for the fact that you can manage in any of its cities in English language without learning a speck of Swedish. This fact has its downside because it means that there are people who can live in Sweden for years without getting past ‘kanelbullar’ (cinnamon rolls). One can argue that The Local just made this trick easier, but on balance I think it is an admirable project devoted to crossing linguistic and, with this, cultural barriers.

They say that there is no place like home. For me that is on my Swedish island(s) where I can cross in and out of English and Swedish at will without having to think too much about it. In many ways, Sweden has been at the forefront of the ongoing project to be a modern society. When it comes to language, values such as linguistic modesty and a willingness to meet visitors halfway are ones that I believe will in the future count heavily for determining whether people experience that society as a desirable one to be in.

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Expand Your Realm this Summer

Thursday, June 25th, 2009
In front of the Fram Museum, Oslo

In front of the Fram Museum, Oslo

Most of the time you can find me on one of my islands writing and coming up with far too many ideas for my own good. During the past three days, however, my life has been turned outwards, to the great wide world that I once lived in before my twins came along and localised my life. Now, don’t get too excited. I’m in Oslo, where I can still speak Swedish and English and be understood, and where people stay up 22 of 24 hours in the high summer in order to get enough light stored up for the rest of the year (view of an Australian friend of mine).

I have to admit that I don’t like being a tourist. I would rather blend in with the locals – be a part of the greater permanence of things – or at the very least carry an iPhone and a briefcase in order to give that sleek, above-it-all, business traveller impression. However, with a shoulder sachel loaded with bandaids, water and bananas slung over my shoulder to keep my two 10-year-olds happy, I am unmistakably a member of the bewildered-looking tribe of foreigners unflatteringly called tourists, which invades the enchanting capital of Norway each summer. I try to blend in with the natives by throwing in the occasional “ikke” (NOT in Norwegian) and “greit” (OK in Norwegian) but, time after time, I am discovered within seconds and given that sympathetic ‘can I help you’ sort of smile.  

My twins are immune to my travel snobbery. Everything is new and full of wonder. We stumble upon the assume vivid astro focus exhibition which is housed in a zeplin-like structure in a city square (an exhibition of the National Museum of Art, Architecture and Design in Oslo). We walk through a crazy maze of color and pattern, and the children eventually find the reward for getting through it which is to exit by going down an enormous slide. Despite my aching tourist’s feet, I take the stairs and wait, holding the children’s shoes as I stand at the base of the slide. I’m tired but I wake up quickly as I notice that the children are sliding down a grotesque green blow-up structure emerging from the middle of two legs.

I’m wide awake now and looking into the brochure. The objective of this flamboyant project is to get the audience to “undergo a role change” and instead of having us just looking at the picture on the wall, letting it draw us into a new realm. Whatever my reservations about being a tourist (and about the avant-garde slide my children have just gleefully gone down), I reflect that the best of being away and traveling is about exactly this. It presents you with the possibility of expanding your personal space and becoming a part of something new.

assume vivid astro focus in Oslo this summer

assume vivid astro focus in Oslo this summer

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Blog Update: Stripes News

21 May 21:34

WEEK 21 »

"A week full to the brim with LFC football…. Div 5 LFC match against Nåjdens FK has been moved. This is due to the Svenska Cupen final: 26 May, 17.00 kick off, Nationalarenan Friends Arena, Solna. Next match is on Tuesday (see below). ………………………………………………………… Friday: Div5 Ladies: Rotebro IS FF – Långholmen FC (Skinnaråsens IP) KO: 16.15 ………………………………………………………… Saturday: Vets: Långholmen FC – IFK..." READ »

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