pomological heaven
Of all of the superlatives about Sweden, one of the least known is that it is home to the largest number of apple varieties in the world. As I drive out of Drottningholm towards Ekerö, I notice innumerable home-made roadside signs inviting me to visit Äppelfabriken on Färingso. I do love “mysig” (cozy in Swedish) little eco-cafes but they seem to be popping up everywhere with the same quinoa and sprouts on whole wheat.
Äppelfabriken is original. It is surrounded in pomological history, as, according to a map dating back to the early 17th century, Sweden’s first extensive apple orchards were located on Färingsö. Now there are so many apple trees on this island and Mälaren as a whole, you’d imagine the entire place is an apple orchard. However, Äppelfabriken has been clever in choosing a location steeped in the history of its star ingredient.
Most eco-cafe owners are passionate about sustainability issues. The owners of Äppelfabriken are too although their delivery is less emotional and more to the point. On the wall in the barn to the right of the boutique, where one can sit in front of an open fire and try many different kinds of apples, there is a sign with the following striking text (in translation):
“At the dawn of the 20th century juices and ciders were made by Stockmos of Färingsö and apple pop by Pommac with real juice from Swedish apples as their base. Today there we have an industrial production which excludes Swedish apples. Apple cider is commonly made from imported juice that has been transported all the way from China. Apple sauce is now usually made with imported dried apple flakes. Each year thousands of tons of apples fall to the ground in Sweden and rot. Old recipes and means of fermenting apples without chemical additives are forgotten. In the shops there are “Red”, “Green” and sometimes “Yellow apples. These have usually been sprayed and harvested before they are fully ripe so that they can be transported halfway around the earth. That is the reason that they have a lesser taste, a thicker skin and less nutrition.”
Once you have read this, you are high-tailing it into the small boutique to view the many rows of jars and other apple products produced in Sweden’s smallest factory. A freshly baked apple pie has just been run over from the house next door and I purchase a piece to enjoy in the nearby heated greenhouse. I brew my own coffee and feel at home eating off real porcelain and ceramic that doesn’t match, rather than the usual designer white. The cement mouse under the table with the red eyes stares at me. This is one of many under the tables and in the corner around the place. The cats feel right at home too.
Sweden's smallest factory
My suggestion is to give Äppelfabriken a whirl on one of these frosty October weekends (open Fridays-Sundays 12-16 until 20 December) when you’ve got cabin fever but don’t feel like blending with the crowds. Sweden’s best little apple factory is certainly worth a visit. Visit their web site and you’ll notice that they’ve won an award or two.
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Looking for apple recipes? Visit The Nordic Wellbeing Cookbook and Julie’s Kitchen at www.nordicwellbeing.com.
