• Sweden edition

Style in Sweden

Comments on fashion and aesthetics

Fashionable elections

September 19th, 2010 by mareike

After almost four years of living in Sweden there are still “my first time” moments. Right now it is the first time for me that I see and follow the Swedish elections. It has been an interesting experience since many things are actually quite different compared to my home country Germany. I am not talking about the political system and how the Swedish elections work but rather the atmosphere and cultural aspects.

The first difference that I have realised is that Swedish politicians are incredibly kind to each other. They are so kind that they sometimes seem stiff to me during debates, like they are reading a script. Of course, political debates should be serious and no circus show but for me it is hard to believe the candidates that they really stand for what they are saying if they don’t show any passion for their ideas.

The other surprise for me is the role of fashion in these elections. All bigger Swedish fashion magazines such as Glamour and Café published stories about the style of the candidates and interviewed them regarding their opinion on fashion.

What I think is even more interesting is that fashion and lifestyle bloggers have been included in the campaigns. According to the Metro newspaper, Stureplan bloggers Anna Hibbs and Michaela Forni have been paid for supporting the Moderate Party in their blogs.

I have always been a fan of combining fashion with political discussions, considering style and trends from a more critical perspective. I think it’s fantastic if fashion goes political, however, I am not sure if I like the idea of politics becoming fashion.

Although I love fashion, I am of the opinion that there are much more serious issues than the latest trends. Before you can afford a nice dress, you actually need a job.

I don’t mean that politicians have nothing to do in fashion magazines, but instead of asking them the obvious “What’s your favourite garment” question they could have put the focus on how to support creative people such as designers or stylists. I think it would have been more entertaining and informative than reading that Maria Wetterstrand’s (Green Party) favourite clothes are organic jeans (what a surprise!) or if Nyamko Sabuni (Liberal Party) or Gudrun Schyman (Feminist Party) has the better style.

Anyway, it has been interesting to see the elections in another country. I am curious to see how the next Swedish government will look like…and I am not talking about their clothes now.

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Fur is back in eco friendly Sweden

August 31st, 2010 by mareike

I have always loved animals. When I was a child I even cried when my grandmother wanted to wear one of her fur coats or when my father wanted to order lobster at the restaurant. I mean, how awful is it to choose your food when it is still alive and throw it then into boiling water just to get an exclusive meal?

Today I fortunately don’t cry anymore when someone eats lobster or wears a fur coat but it still makes me angry when I read that fur is one of this season’s biggest trends, in particular when everybody pretends to be so incredibly eco friendly these days.

Being eco friendly is hip in Sweden but I think for most people it is rather a trend than a life style. On the one hand, green products have never been as popular as they are now and more and more people become vegetarians but on the other hand people start wearing fur again. In the latest issue of Swedish Glamour, Maria Soxbo discusses the comeback of fur. She writes that there are four opinions among Swedish fashionistas:

- Never ever! Not even fake fur! (34 percent)

- No real fur but fake fur is OK (47 percent)

- If it is vintage it is OK. It would be a shame to throw away such an exclusive piece! (11 percent)

- Fur is chic and warm! Love it! (8 percent)

After being such a drama queen when I was a child you might guess that I do not belong to the last two groups. However, I have to say that I don’t have any problems with fake fur.

I am getting angry when fur lovers argue that the material shouldn’t be considered so critically since we also wear leather, which is totally accepted. I think leather is a different story as there are very few materials that can substitute it when it comes to shoes for instance.

Especially in Sweden where the winter is harsh you are glad if you have some warm leather boots that protect your feet from snow and ice. As a shoe nerd, I have many fake leather shoes, which are great during summer, but useless as soon as it is getting colder. I haven’t found any material that is as effective as leather. Please let me know if you know better.

The vintage argument sounds like a bad excuse to me. I mean, does it make any difference if the animal died 30 or one year ago?

Even Karl Lagerfeld, king of political incorrectness, has only included fake fur in the Chanel a/w 2010/11 collection. The pieces are not really my cup of tea as the Chewbacca look is not exactly my style but I like the message: fake fur can be exclusive and chic (although if it probably wasn’t Karl Lagerfeld’s intention to say that)!

I don’t want to tell you what is right or wrong and believe me I won’t cry if you don’t agree with me, but seriously, do we still need to torture animals just to get a nice piece of clothing? There are other materials that are as warm and chic as fur so I think it is definitely not worth anymore to buy fur.

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Fashion week: minimalist and romantic

August 20th, 2010 by mareike

Either minimalist and clean or playful and romantic, Mercedes-Benz fashion week in Stockholm was full of contrasts. Homegrown designers displayed their s/s 2011 collections this week and although I am usually a great fan of Swedish fashion I am unfortunately a little bit disappointed this time.

What do you think associate with s/s collections? For me it is most important that they feature something fresh but still chic. In particular since I have lived in Sweden where the winters are dark and cold I just need more colourful clothes during spring.

Most collections presented at fashion week in Stockholm were black, grey, beige and greige, kind of a new colour that is a mixture between grey and beige. Therefore I totally agree with Charlotta Finkenberg, editor in chief at Chic, when she says in her blog that the collections look quite autumnal.

Most exciting were definitely the transparent plastic boots in the Cheap Monday collection although I am not sure how practical or even wearable they are in everyday life. Also Ida Sjöstedt’s leopard hot pants were a real eye catcher.

Next season’s biggest trend? Cheap Monday introduced transparent plastic shoes.

Ida Sjöstedt presented a quite girly and 70s inspired collection.

Filippa K goes minimalist.

Whyred brings back the 90s dress-over-pants look.

Ewa i Walla showed off the most playful pieces including flowers and layers.

Welcome to the circus? The Swedish School of Textile.

The Local Firm sticks to its dark and squarish design.

Tiger of Sweden. Lagom as usual. (*Lagom = so so).

My must have next season: blouses with jabots and bows. But also the feathers in Carin Wester’s are interesting.

Camilla Norrback, casual but chic.

Photos: Kristian Löveborg/ Berns Salonger

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Back to femininity – from size zero to size hero?

August 10th, 2010 by mareike

No matter which fashion magazine you check, it’s all about celebrating the comeback of female curves. “Breasts are back. If you’ve got’em, get them out”, writes British Elle. In particular Prada and Louis Vuitton have displayed a/w collections that emphasise the female body with the result that models who are usually considered as too big for high fashion such as Doutzen Kroes or Lara Stone have been included in the runway shows and campaigns. There are even rumours that Marc Jacobs wants to design a plus size collection.

Crystal Renn, once a super skinny model on the brink of collapse, became successful after she had decided to say goodbye to size zero. She even wrote a book entitled “Hungry” about her life as an anorectic model. Her aim was to shine a light on how people in the industry and in general perceive beauty.

On the surface it seems that this development is fantastic as the trend promotes a more natural and healthy size. However, if you take a closer at it I think that not so much has actually changed.

First of all, the focus on femininity expressed through big breasts and curvy hips feels like a step back to the 1950s. I think this is black and white thinking as it implies that either women are thin and boyish or more curvy and female. Not every woman who is not super skinny is necessary super female. It is sad that we can’t think out of the male/female categories.

I also question if it is enough to include some models in the campaigns who do not look like starving teenagers to change the size zero beauty idol. “Bigger” models (who actually have a normal body) are still considered as plus size, which involves that thin women represent the normal shape in the fashion industry since they do not need any additional description such as plus size.

Language is an important factor when it comes to our perception of beauty. Therefore I think it is much more important to stop calling women with normal and healthy bodies plus size than to just include bigger women in campaigns.

Now you might think why the hell am I so concerned about some stupid models who maybe earn lots of money? I am actually not concerned about the models but about girls and women who start questioning their body because of an unrealistic beauty idol. Even if we try to deny it, people in the media influence our understanding of what is beautiful and ugly.

I also think that I am above such things but when I see all the skinny girls in the magazines I start wondering if I am too big although I have always been a slim type. And if I feel like that, for sure, teenage girls will reflect even more about these issues.

Next week is Stockholm fashion week and I am curious how Swedish designers react to this new trend when presenting their s/s 2011 collections.

PS: I am Sorry that I didn’t post so much lately but I was very busy with searching for an apartment. Have you ever searched for an apartment in Sweden? It’s horrible! The Swedish housing market is such a mess! However, I finally found one so I promise that I will be more active again.

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Suntanned skin: Sexy or cheap?

July 19th, 2010 by mareike

I got a thing for corny high school TV shows. I know they are ridiculous but sometimes it is nice to just relax and watch something simple. After an intensive Gossip Girl marathon last spring I decided to change from the East to the West coast and started to watch 90210.

During the first episodes I was quite shocked how incredibly skinny and unnaturally tanned everybody was. My friend Gianna could not understand my reaction and we started a long discussion about whether being tanned is still cool and sexy or cheap and soo 80s.

I have the feeling that more and more people actually prefer a natural skin tone. In particular solarium tanning is not considered as a status symbol anymore as it was during the 1980s when it was new and only few people could afford it.

Another aspect that influenced the image of tanned skin is the whole discussion about skin cancer. I think people have become more careful and avoid for instance the midday sun.

However, I have to admit, the situation might be a little bit different in Sweden. As soon as it is getting warmer, people are lying in the sun. I am not sure if this is just about being suntanned or if it is a reaction to the harsh and long winter – probably both.

Personally I like pale porcelain skin but I don’t mind when I am a little bit tanned during summer. Don’t misunderstand me. If somebody naturally has a more exotic skin tone I think it looks very beautiful but going to the solarium three times a week with the result that the skin tone becomes orange will definitely look cheap.

Well, I haven’t always thought like that. When I was in high school I loved tanned skin. I was one of these girls who went to the solarium three times a week and used self-bronzer to darken my skin as much as possible. When I see old pictures I think I look terrible with my super tanned, kind of orange, skin…like a Barbie.

I am curious what you think about tanned skin. Cool and sexy or cheap and sooo 80s?

2001 and 2010.

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Vintage shopping in Copenhagen

June 27th, 2010 by mareike

I read in the Metro newspaper that Copenhagen becomes more and more popular among Swedes. People appreciate the relaxed atmosphere, the milder winter and the shorter distance to other European countries compared to Stockholm. Metro also mentioned that Copenhagen is more worth-visiting when it comes to shopping, especially vintage and second hand.

“It’s time to check out Copenhagen’s range of shops”, I thought when I read the article. I didn’t have high expectations since I assumed that no city could be better for vintage shopping than Berlin. I was wrong!

There are lots of wonderful vintage and second hand shops. The best thing is that they are all very close to each other and just a ten minutes walk away from the central station. Just go to Studiestræde and you will find shops but also cosy cafés and bars.

Regarding the atmosphere, I think Copenhagen is a god mix of Stockholm and Berlin: not so strict and boring like Stockholm but not so crazy and easygoing like Berlin. In one of the second hand shops the seller apologized for opening too late that day. “Sorry, I was just too tired to get up in time this morning”, she explained. Can you imagine a seller in Stockholm would ever say something like this?

Anyway, here are my favourite shops:

FN.92
My favourite vintage shop in Copenhagen. A must-see if you are looking for a unique hat.

Larsbjørnsstræde 6, 1009 Copenhagen K, Mon-Fri 11am-8pm, Sat 11am-4pm.

Kitch Bitch
Mostly dresses, skirts and blouses. Cheap but chic! Lot’s of 80s stuff.

Læderstræde 30, 1201 Copenhagen K, Mon-Thu 12am-6pm, Fri 12am-7pm, Sat 11am-5pm.

København K
Offers a wide range of street wear for both men and women.

Teglgårdstræde 4 (bigger shop on two floors), Studiestræde 32B (in the backyard), 1455 Copenhagen K, Mon-Thu 11am-6pm, Fri 11am-7pm, Sat 11am-3pm.

The Second Way
Great spot for accessory shopping! I found two cute scarves there for 50 DKK.

Studiestræde 15, 1455 Copenhagen K, Mon-Thu 11am-6pm, Fri 11am-6pm, Sat 11am-5pm.

My new scarves from The Second Way.

Retro Sales
Offers everything from shoes to jewellery. Their products are even available on the internet. 

Sankt Peders Stræde 47, Mon-Fri 12am.6pm, Sat 11am-4pm.

One Off (designer clothes in vintage style)
When you enter the shop for the first time you probably wonder how the 1960s shift dresses can be in such a great condition but then you see designer and owner Dørte Maado in the back sewing a new beautiful dress. You should definitely go there if you like 1960s style.

Studiestræde 16, 1455 Copenhagen K, Mon-Sat 9am-6pm.

The Sneaky Fox (mainly tights and socks, not vintage)

My favourite shop when it comes to tights and socks. Unique, chic and a good quality for acceptable prices.

Studiestræde 25a, 1455 Copenhagen K.

Check out this site for more vintage shops in Copenhagen

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Swedish hasbeens: my must-have this season

June 19th, 2010 by mareike

There is a shop in Lund that sells very tacky women’s wear. The clothes are supposed to be chic but just look cheap. Once there was a purple fake silk dress with rhinestones in the shop window, which wouldn’t even have worn a 1980s teenage girl at her prom. I would never have expected that they would offer something that I could be interested in but they actually do at the moment. It is one of the few shops in Lund that sells authentic Swedish hasbeens, handmade clogs in fashionable fresh colours.

The comeback of clogs started when Karl Lagerfeld included the wooden shoes in his cheerful and nature-inspired Chanel spring/summer collection 2010. They are really stunning and if they didn’t cost around 8000 SEK they would already be in my closet. Thank God that Topshop created a 7000 SEK cheaper version of the clogs, which are almost as chic as the original ones.

Since I can’t walk in high heels without at least two drinks (and I don’t drink everyday) the Topshop variant is not the right one for me in everyday life. Therefore I became interested in Swedish hasbeens, which have a more moderate heel. I was obviously not the only one who came up with this idea as the brand was in almost fashion magazine lately.

Here is an overview of the most beautiful hasbeens. The label has also recently launched a handbag collection featuring some very nice pieces. Simple and classic with a twist (and without any rhinestones): in my opinion the most beautiful way of designing clothing and accessories. The red peep clogs on the first picture are my favourites ones and personal must have this season.

Photos: Swedish hasbeens/Ingemar Lindewall

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Book tip: Guide of the hip Swedes

June 1st, 2010 by mareike

Being hip is something that many people are striving after although they would never admit it. Trying to be hip is like watching the Eurovision Song Context: you would never admit that you do it on purpose. It’s always like “Well, there was nothing else on TV” or “No, I didn’t actually search for this vintage dress. I found it by accident in my grandmother’s closet.”

I recently read a book that broke this taboo. Charlotte Lundqvist and Christin Persson describe in their “Guide of the hip Swedes” (Hippa Svenskars Guide) in a funny and (self-) ironic way how to be hip in Sweden and divide hipsters in six categories.  

I think it is particularly interesting to read the book as an immigrant in Sweden since you recognise the looks and behaviour and learn something about Swedish subcultures. It is the perfect book for commuters as you always have at least one hipster right in front of you.

Are you wondering now if you have already become a Swedish hipster? Just check it out: 

The geek girl (Geektjejen)

The geek girl, also called “La Garçonne” as she likes to wear her boyfriend’s clothes, usually goes shopping at Weekday, American Apparel and Tjallamalla. She listens to Grace Jones, early Madonna, indie rock and electro. She is the queen of social media and twitters about every detail in her life.  

The street style fellow (Gubbstreetkillen)

The street style fellow checks “The Sartorialist” every day. He mostly wears brown and beige shades and has huge roundish glasses, trench coats and cardigans with leather elbow patches from Henrik Vibskov or Raf Simons. His favourite band is Daft Punk.

The pop lady (Poptanten)

The pop lady is usually dressed in high-necked blouses and knee length skirts. She likes baking and cooking and is interested in the environment which is why she only buys ecologic food.

 

The usual Swede hipster (Svennehipstern)

She usual Swede hipster loves 8 bits Nintendo although he has all games on his computer. He listens to Bob Hund, The Strokes and Mando Diao and played in a Misfits cover band when he was a teenager. His favourite pants are Cheap Monday jeans on which you can always see the outlines of his Göteborgs Rapé snus box.

The French girl (Fransyskan)

The French girl lives in an arty apartment with stucco and high ceilings in Stockholm Södermalm. Her favourite garment is the classic Chanel 2.55 flap bag. Her favourite musician is Nina Simone.

The club hipster (Klubbhipstern)

The club hipster is partying all over Europe, preferably at the clubs Fabric in London or Berghain in Berlin. He is very picky when it comes to music and only listens to remixes of the French label Kitsuné. His favourite fashion labels are Wood Wood and Comme de Garçons. His hair is trimmed in the back while the styled fringe is long. He probably works as a graphic designer (or at least he wants to) and never leaves the house without his MacBook Pro.

After my boyfriend had read some parts of the guide he asked me, which hipster I am. “I think I am a mix between a usual Swede hipster and a club hipster with pop lady and French girl features,” I said. He laughed and meant that I am none of these stereotypes. I actually liked that.

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Swedish fashion journalism: silence in the country of discussion?

May 16th, 2010 by mareike

When I was new in Sweden I had the feeling that people discussed every problem for ages until they would finally decide something. Everybody had to listen to everybody’s ideas about ten times for being able to deliberate whether an idea was good or maybe not so useful. “Constructive criticism” were the magic words when I was a student in Lund. In Swedish fashion it seems to be the opposite.

“For some reason you don’t write fashion critiques in Sweden. You just report fashion news,” argues Carl Reinholdtzon Belfrage in the March issue of Nöjesguiden. Based on that expression, this month’ issue is all about critique, criticism and Sweden’s best critics.  

Parisa Amiri discusses for instance to what extent Swedish fashion blogs are critical. She has explored how many critical articles have been published in three of Sweden’s biggest fashion blogs, Elin Kling, Sofi Fahrman and Karolina Skande.

It’s not a surprise that the investigated blogs contain less than ten percent critical articles in 200 blog entries, two of the blogs even less than one percent. The criticism has only been directed to non-Swedish designers and fashion companies.

Amiri argues that Swedish fashion bloggers “don’t dare” to be critical in particular regarding the Swedish market since they are highly dependent on the support of the companies.

She also claims that fashion bloggers, journalists and designers regularly meet at press events and develop kind of a friendship. Because of this relationship, it is difficult for fashion bloggers and journalists to review designers and companies. 

I think the second argument is quite weak. Even if they were really friends it should be possible to criticise each other’s work. I ask my friends as often as possible to comment on my texts because without constructive criticism I can’t develop and improve my work.

Let’s be honest, this has nothing to do with friendship, this is about money! Especially fashion bloggers are dependent on ads. If you write that H&M’s latest collection is really disappointing, they will probably say Goodbye to you.

After more than three years of living in Sweden, the country of deliberation and compromise, I also feel that I want to discuss everything. There is definitely a lack of critical consideration in fashion as most magazines just show what’s new this season without questioning it.

Considering for instance the new nude look, beige and sand tones from head to toe, it doesn’t suit every skin tone and it is actually quite difficult to combine the different beige shades in such a way that it looks good. I have read about the new nude look in every Swedish fashion magazines but only Daniel Lindström, fashion director at Café, referred to this problem in the Metro newspaper.

I am also missing discussions about the social and cultural meaning of fashion. Clothing is not just something that you put on. In my opinion different styles reveal lots of hidden details of a person and even a society.

Of course, money is important in life and especially if you are working as a freelancer you are dependent on ads and connections. I cannot deny that having money and spending it is much nicer than counting every penny but isn’t it a shame if we forget to be critical just because of money? We shouldn’t be afraid to criticise the giants of the industry. Maybe they even appreciate a good researched article about their collections including pros and cons than obvious bootlicking.

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The fame monster

May 9th, 2010 by mareike

She doesn’t own hair styling products because she only wears wigs, she likes hats that look like Kermit the frog or huge lobsters and she has bras that shoot sparks. Lady Gaga is probably today’s most experimental pop star. Style icons such Noami Campbell, Rihanna or Blondie star Debbie Harry love her experimental and dramatic style and even the queen of pop and trends, Madonna, has been at a Lady Gaga concert with her daughter, according to Glamour. The world is going gaga.

Photo: Domain Barnyard

This weekend Lady Gaga came to Sweden and continued her Monster Ball tour in Stockholm at the Ericsson Globe. I think it is really a breath of fresh air to see such an extraordinary pop star in the Swedish media. I am so tired of Sweden’s perfect but boring musicians such as this year’s Eurovision Song Contest participant Anna Bergendahl.

I am not the biggest fan of pop music but I think Lady Gaga is really cool. Her songs are exactly how pop songs should be: cheesy but catchy. Many critics of Lady Gaga such as the British musician M.I.A. argue that she is boring because she just does usual pop songs. Nothing special apart from her outfits!

I agree that Lady Gaga is not the new Madonna as her music is really not a total new approach to pop music but compared to other starlets such as Britney Spears or Christina Aguilera she is much more interesting and entertaining. She is a pop star and performance artist in one person and not only a good-looking woman who can sing and dance.

Either you hate her or you love her. I love her and can’t wait until she is coming to Malmö.

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