When I was new in Sweden I had the feeling that people discussed every problem for ages until they would finally decide something. Everybody had to listen to everybody’s ideas about ten times for being able to deliberate whether an idea was good or maybe not so useful. “Constructive criticism” were the magic words when I was a student in Lund. In Swedish fashion it seems to be the opposite.
“For some reason you don’t write fashion critiques in Sweden. You just report fashion news,” argues Carl Reinholdtzon Belfrage in the March issue of Nöjesguiden. Based on that expression, this month’ issue is all about critique, criticism and Sweden’s best critics.
Parisa Amiri discusses for instance to what extent Swedish fashion blogs are critical. She has explored how many critical articles have been published in three of Sweden’s biggest fashion blogs, Elin Kling, Sofi Fahrman and Karolina Skande.
It’s not a surprise that the investigated blogs contain less than ten percent critical articles in 200 blog entries, two of the blogs even less than one percent. The criticism has only been directed to non-Swedish designers and fashion companies.
Amiri argues that Swedish fashion bloggers “don’t dare” to be critical in particular regarding the Swedish market since they are highly dependent on the support of the companies.
She also claims that fashion bloggers, journalists and designers regularly meet at press events and develop kind of a friendship. Because of this relationship, it is difficult for fashion bloggers and journalists to review designers and companies.
I think the second argument is quite weak. Even if they were really friends it should be possible to criticise each other’s work. I ask my friends as often as possible to comment on my texts because without constructive criticism I can’t develop and improve my work.
Let’s be honest, this has nothing to do with friendship, this is about money! Especially fashion bloggers are dependent on ads. If you write that H&M’s latest collection is really disappointing, they will probably say Goodbye to you.
After more than three years of living in Sweden, the country of deliberation and compromise, I also feel that I want to discuss everything. There is definitely a lack of critical consideration in fashion as most magazines just show what’s new this season without questioning it.
Considering for instance the new nude look, beige and sand tones from head to toe, it doesn’t suit every skin tone and it is actually quite difficult to combine the different beige shades in such a way that it looks good. I have read about the new nude look in every Swedish fashion magazines but only Daniel Lindström, fashion director at Café, referred to this problem in the Metro newspaper.
I am also missing discussions about the social and cultural meaning of fashion. Clothing is not just something that you put on. In my opinion different styles reveal lots of hidden details of a person and even a society.
Of course, money is important in life and especially if you are working as a freelancer you are dependent on ads and connections. I cannot deny that having money and spending it is much nicer than counting every penny but isn’t it a shame if we forget to be critical just because of money? We shouldn’t be afraid to criticise the giants of the industry. Maybe they even appreciate a good researched article about their collections including pros and cons than obvious bootlicking.
