Style in Sweden

After almost four years of living in Sweden there are still “my first time” moments. Right now it is the first time for me that I see and follow the Swedish elections. It has been an interesting experience since many things are actually quite different compared to my home country Germany. I am not talking about the political system and how the Swedish elections work but rather the atmosphere and cultural aspects.

The first difference that I have realised is that Swedish politicians are incredibly kind to each other. They are so kind that they sometimes seem stiff to me during debates, like they are reading a script. Of course, political debates should be serious and no circus show but for me it is hard to believe the candidates that they really stand for what they are saying if they don’t show any passion for their ideas.

The other surprise for me is the role of fashion in these elections. All bigger Swedish fashion magazines such as Glamour and Café published stories about the style of the candidates and interviewed them regarding their opinion on fashion.

What I think is even more interesting is that fashion and lifestyle bloggers have been included in the campaigns. According to the Metro newspaper, Stureplan bloggers Anna Hibbs and Michaela Forni have been paid for supporting the Moderate Party in their blogs.

I have always been a fan of combining fashion with political discussions, considering style and trends from a more critical perspective. I think it’s fantastic if fashion goes political, however, I am not sure if I like the idea of politics becoming fashion.

Although I love fashion, I am of the opinion that there are much more serious issues than the latest trends. Before you can afford a nice dress, you actually need a job.

I don’t mean that politicians have nothing to do in fashion magazines, but instead of asking them the obvious “What’s your favourite garment” question they could have put the focus on how to support creative people such as designers or stylists. I think it would have been more entertaining and informative than reading that Maria Wetterstrand’s (Green Party) favourite clothes are organic jeans (what a surprise!) or if Nyamko Sabuni (Liberal Party) or Gudrun Schyman (Feminist Party) has the better style.

Anyway, it has been interesting to see the elections in another country. I am curious to see how the next Swedish government will look like…and I am not talking about their clothes now.

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Being hip is something that many people are striving after although they would never admit it. Trying to be hip is like watching the Eurovision Song Context: you would never admit that you do it on purpose. It’s always like “Well, there was nothing else on TV” or “No, I didn’t actually search for this vintage dress. I found it by accident in my grandmother’s closet.”

I recently read a book that broke this taboo. Charlotte Lundqvist and Christin Persson describe in their “Guide of the hip Swedes” (Hippa Svenskars Guide) in a funny and (self-) ironic way how to be hip in Sweden and divide hipsters in six categories.  

I think it is particularly interesting to read the book as an immigrant in Sweden since you recognise the looks and behaviour and learn something about Swedish subcultures. It is the perfect book for commuters as you always have at least one hipster right in front of you.

Are you wondering now if you have already become a Swedish hipster? Just check it out: 

The geek girl (Geektjejen)

The geek girl, also called “La Garçonne” as she likes to wear her boyfriend’s clothes, usually goes shopping at Weekday, American Apparel and Tjallamalla. She listens to Grace Jones, early Madonna, indie rock and electro. She is the queen of social media and twitters about every detail in her life.  

The street style fellow (Gubbstreetkillen)

The street style fellow checks “The Sartorialist” every day. He mostly wears brown and beige shades and has huge roundish glasses, trench coats and cardigans with leather elbow patches from Henrik Vibskov or Raf Simons. His favourite band is Daft Punk.

The pop lady (Poptanten)

The pop lady is usually dressed in high-necked blouses and knee length skirts. She likes baking and cooking and is interested in the environment which is why she only buys ecologic food.

The usual Swede hipster (Svennehipstern)

She usual Swede hipster loves 8 bits Nintendo although he has all games on his computer. He listens to Bob Hund, The Strokes and Mando Diao and played in a Misfits cover band when he was a teenager. His favourite pants are Cheap Monday jeans on which you can always see the outlines of his Göteborgs Rapé snus box.

The French girl (Fransyskan)

The French girl lives in an arty apartment with stucco and high ceilings in Stockholm Södermalm. Her favourite garment is the classic Chanel 2.55 flap bag. Her favourite musician is Nina Simone.

The club hipster (Klubbhipstern)

The club hipster is partying all over Europe, preferably at the clubs Fabric in London or Berghain in Berlin. He is very picky when it comes to music and only listens to remixes of the French label Kitsuné. His favourite fashion labels are Wood Wood and Comme de Garçons. His hair is trimmed in the back while the styled fringe is long. He probably works as a graphic designer (or at least he wants to) and never leaves the house without his MacBook Pro.

After my boyfriend had read some parts of the guide he asked me, which hipster I am. “I think I am a mix between a usual Swede hipster and a club hipster with pop lady and French girl features,” I said. He laughed and meant that I am none of these stereotypes. I actually liked that.

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When I was new in Sweden I had the feeling that people discussed every problem for ages until they would finally decide something. Everybody had to listen to everybody’s ideas about ten times for being able to deliberate whether an idea was good or maybe not so useful. “Constructive criticism” were the magic words when I was a student in Lund. In Swedish fashion it seems to be the opposite.

“For some reason you don’t write fashion critiques in Sweden. You just report fashion news,” argues Carl Reinholdtzon Belfrage in the March issue of Nöjesguiden. Based on that expression, this month’ issue is all about critique, criticism and Sweden’s best critics.  

Parisa Amiri discusses for instance to what extent Swedish fashion blogs are critical. She has explored how many critical articles have been published in three of Sweden’s biggest fashion blogs, Elin Kling, Sofi Fahrman and Karolina Skande.

It’s not a surprise that the investigated blogs contain less than ten percent critical articles in 200 blog entries, two of the blogs even less than one percent. The criticism has only been directed to non-Swedish designers and fashion companies.

Amiri argues that Swedish fashion bloggers “don’t dare” to be critical in particular regarding the Swedish market since they are highly dependent on the support of the companies.

She also claims that fashion bloggers, journalists and designers regularly meet at press events and develop kind of a friendship. Because of this relationship, it is difficult for fashion bloggers and journalists to review designers and companies. 

I think the second argument is quite weak. Even if they were really friends it should be possible to criticise each other’s work. I ask my friends as often as possible to comment on my texts because without constructive criticism I can’t develop and improve my work.

Let’s be honest, this has nothing to do with friendship, this is about money! Especially fashion bloggers are dependent on ads. If you write that H&M’s latest collection is really disappointing, they will probably say Goodbye to you.

After more than three years of living in Sweden, the country of deliberation and compromise, I also feel that I want to discuss everything. There is definitely a lack of critical consideration in fashion as most magazines just show what’s new this season without questioning it.

Considering for instance the new nude look, beige and sand tones from head to toe, it doesn’t suit every skin tone and it is actually quite difficult to combine the different beige shades in such a way that it looks good. I have read about the new nude look in every Swedish fashion magazines but only Daniel Lindström, fashion director at Café, referred to this problem in the Metro newspaper.

I am also missing discussions about the social and cultural meaning of fashion. Clothing is not just something that you put on. In my opinion different styles reveal lots of hidden details of a person and even a society.

Of course, money is important in life and especially if you are working as a freelancer you are dependent on ads and connections. I cannot deny that having money and spending it is much nicer than counting every penny but isn’t it a shame if we forget to be critical just because of money? We shouldn’t be afraid to criticise the giants of the industry. Maybe they even appreciate a good researched article about their collections including pros and cons than obvious bootlicking.

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H&M launches its third Fashion against Aids campaign on May 20, which includes a really cool festival collection.

For girls there is a mix of rock with bohemia and glamour with added ethnic touches. Denim hot pants or patterned leggings are matched with embellished tunic topics, while maxi-dresses are toughened up when worn with leather jackets. Gladiator shoes, chunky bracelets, wide belts and beaded necklaces complete the look.

For guys, it’s all about looking like you are in a band, with slim blazers and jackets, denim jeans, cropped shirts, embellished waist coats, paisley vests and the essential rocker’s hat are all part of the picture.

The best thing about this collection is that it even includes stylish head phones, tents, sleeping bags and fold-up chairs. Just everything you need at a festival!

I love the collection and I can’t wait to shop it! It’s like Kate Moss meets Pete Doherty (again). In particular I like the orange dress with the leopard pattern (first photo). The style reminds me of Marc Jacob’s Into the Wild skirt.

I think the idea of combining music and fashion with raising awareness of safe sex is fantastic in particular if the clothes look so interesting and modern like in this collection.

Photos: H&M

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Today (February 26) opens a very interesting exhibition called “Power of fashion – 300 years of clothing” (Modemakt – 300 år av kläder) at the Nordic Museum (Nordiska Museet) in Stockholm displaying clothing from the 1760s, 1860s and 1960s. The decades were chosen because of the strong influence of technology and economics on fashion as well as the general spirit of change.

I think the exhibition sounds very exciting because it doesn’t only focus on clothes as garments but also as art pieces that show identity and status. There is also a very diverse range of fashion on display including August Strindberg’s dressing gown and modern pieces by Sweden’s must successful labels such as Cheap Monday or Camilla Norrback.

All clothes are real and have been worn by people living in Sweden. Most clothes have even been tailored here.

I really would like to go to that exhibition but I live in Lund, which is 650km far away from Stockholm. This is one of the great disadvantages of living in a country with a low population density. All exciting exhibitions and events take place in the capital.

Anyway, click here to find out more about the exhibition (in Swedish).

Photos: Mats Landin/Nordiska museet

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They say it’s tough to be a teenager because you don’t feel like a child anymore but you are not an adult either. It is something in between. I am 26 and I still feel like that.

Some of friends are already married and have kids. When I meet them it’s all about the kids. First teeth, baptism, diarrhoea, diapers…well the usual baby topics.

When everybody knows the latest baby updates we talk about how incredibly old we are although we are all twenty-somethings.

On the other hand, there are my friends who still live in a dorm and enjoy their life as students including sleeping until 2pm and partying four times a week.

Most people I know either are in the student or in the baby stage. I am wondering what happened to the stage in between?! The stage where you build a career, live in a nice apartment, travel, spend lots of money on fantastic clothes and go to hip parties.

I mean there must be something between a dorm and a diaper! I can’t identify with any of them at the moment. I don’t feel old but I am definitely done with my student life!

I read in the German magazine Spiegel that my generation tend to marry at a younger age again due to insecurity – economic insecurity but also emotional insecurity. The latter means the feeling that you don’t know what to do with your life. Starting a family is definitely a way to make life more meaningful and secure because there are people around you who are always there for you (in the best case).

I think the wish to study as long as possible has similar roots. The university gives security since you have a plan of your life as long as you are a student. If people ask what you are doing you always have an easy and clear answer.

I don’t want to criticise the decisions of other people but it would be great if my interests were a little bit more respected because I am sure that there is a stage between the dorm and the diaper. People with babies sometimes forget that not everybody is as fascinated by first teeth as they are. People can have other passions. For me it’s fashion, music and gender politics.

Sometimes students can’t understand if I don’t want to join the next big party and throw a couch out of the window. Therefore I have been called “boring adult” lately.

I am not boring! But yes, I am an adult.

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About every second year one of my New Year’s resolutions is to start working out. The more enthusiastic I am in the beginning the quicker I am getting tired of it. The excuses are always the same: no time, too cold, it hurts.

In Germany it is quite easy for me to ignore my bad conscience because most of my friends are as lazy as I am. However, here in Sweden you can’t go to the supermarket without meeting some joggers. People are obsessed with sports!

I already saw some joggers when I went home from the station to my apartment after I had visited my family during Christmas. It was like the joggers were welcoming me: “Welcome back to Sweden, Mareike! Don’t forget your New Year’s resolutions! Time to move!”

Not only these joggers but also my boyfriend who wants me to work out with him and my regular pain in the neck pushed me to give sport one more chance. Therefore I bought some gym shoes today. New clothes always motivate me to become active. If I have a new dress for instance I want to go out.

At a sports outfitters here in Lund the salesman showed me the shoes for the “running woman” because he thought that they would fit best my plans. “Well, I need shoes for the lazy woman. Shoes that are so fantastic that I start to love working out,” I said. He smiled and showed me some shoes. At least the price was fantastic as I bought them in the sales.

OK, now I have shoes. What’s next? Wearing them! Well, it’s too cold to run outside! What did I say about excuses in the beginning? Anyway, maybe the gym is a better alternative in the cold Swedish winter. I hope I can find one that doesn’t play as much Schlager music as the one where I worked out two years ago.

Do you have any tips and tricks so that I really continue this time and don’t quit after four weeks again? How do you motivate yourself when you are working out?

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“Your style is very metrosexual today. I mean the leggings”, said my friend Monica from Spain with a smile to one of our male Swedish friends. The leggings were actually long johns but it’s probably not that strange that a girl from southern Europe has never seen a guy in long underwear before.

It started snowing in Skåne this week and it seems that snow is the unspoken sign that it’s time for long johns. I can totally understand that warm underwear is useful in the northern parts of Sweden where it’s really cold and icy but is it necessary here in Skåne in the south of the country?

It is not much colder here than in Germany where I come from. I might be wrong but I think no German guy who is older than 12 and not skiing in the Alps would ever wear long johns. Or are just my German friends too vain and feel too cool for this warm underwear?

I am wondering if this small detail with the long johns is connected to the Swedish male role. This is just my personal experience but in my opinion it is more accepted here than in other cultures that men show “weakness” instead of pretending the “tough guy” who is never freezing for instance.

Don’t misunderstand me! I don’t mean that gender roles are completely different here but maybe it is more accepted (or even expected?) that a guy admits that he is not superman and resistant against everything.

Or maybe it is just because of the weather. But as I said, it’s actually not that cold here in Skåne. I can still wear skirts without freezing whereas my male friends put on their long johns. Even when we were in Berlin last winter they were all wearing long underwear.

I don’t care so much for underwear but I think long johns are kind of funny. Imagine you meet a cool Swedish guy at a club and realise later that night that he is wearing long johns. Not that sexy! I think I would also say: “Well, your style is very metrosexual!”

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