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WINE

French vineyard uncorks ‘Swedish’ champagne

The first ever Swedish-owned champagne house recently opened up its gates in northern France, promising a comprehensive environment policy and “honesty in the bottle”, The Local's Rebecca Martin discovers.

French vineyard uncorks 'Swedish' champagne

“Our Champagne has its own very specific taste and is characterized by its quality and finesse,” company CEO and part owner Kristofer Ruscon tells The Local.

The story of Hatt et Söner began three generations ago when grandfather Ruscon, a blind taster of fine wines, tasted Champagne from a Côte des Blancs vineyard.

Falling in love with the exquisite taste he placed a standing order of 1,000 bottles annually.

Then, six years ago, the family found out that the vineyard was up for sale. Having been in the wine trade since 1825, the family wanted to purchase it but needed financial backing.

Looking for investors, they turned their eyes to Sweden.

The vineyard is now owned by five Swedish families, with Kristofer’s father Michel, the only Frenchman, as chairman.

“That was the beginning of Hatt et Söner and everything was finally signed and sealed in January 2012,” Ruscon explains.

The vineyard is situated near the small French village Bergères-les-Vertus some 20 kilometres south of Épernay in north eastern France. It is one of the highest ranking villages in Champagne, known as a 95 percent Premier Cru-village.

The company specializes in the select Chardonnay grape, but also grows a Pinot Noir. They are established in the Côte des Blancs, which is seen by connoisseurs as the best Champagne region.

Raised in Paris until the age of eleven, Ruscon’s Swedish connection comes through his mother:

“It is the usual story, really. My father, who is French, worked with a number of Swedish companies, met a Swedish girl and fell in love.”

The name, Hatt et Söner, stems from another of the family’s earlier ventures.

“My family has always been in trade and at one point we owned a few factories in the Alps which manufactured hats for Parisian fashion houses. So we thought that the Swedish word for hat; Hatt and söner for sons, would be an appropriate name for the company,” says Ruscon.

The Swedish connection, although not making much of a difference abroad, may prove important for the Swedish market, Ruscon believes.

“In Sweden, a Swedish product is a sign of quality. Swedes are also getting so much more interested in wines than they were before.”

At the moment, Sweden’s state-run monopoly alcohol shop Systembolaget stocks the four first champagnes from the house, with prices ranging between 350 and 900 kronor ($53.70 and $138).

In the future, however, the company is planning on introducing a larger selection, having recently purchased old oak vats in which to mature the wine. The company’s ambition is to become a global brand while trying to be as environmentally friendly as possible.

“We implement what is known in France as ‘la methode raisonée’, which means that we only use pesticides when it is necessary and not as a matter of course. We are also looking at possibilities involving organic farming of the grapes.

First and foremost, Ruscon’s concern is maintaining and developing the brand’s reputation for quality and finesse.

“We grow only the best Chardonnay grapes and we only use the first pressing, selling the second and the third on to other companies. We also mature the wines for a minimum of 6 years in our cellars and have a very low sugar level – only six grammes per litre,” Ruscon tells The Local.

“We think of it as ‘honesty in the bottle’.”

Rebecca Martin

Follow Rebecca on Twitter here.

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WINE

Winemaking in Scandinavia, a world away from French chateau luxe

Making wine in the Nordic countries is far from the glamour associated with Europe's famed wine chateaux: here the sun is fickle, the season is short and diehard aficionados work up more sweat than wine but climate change is helping boost harvests.

Winemaking in Scandinavia, a world away from French chateau luxe
Photo: Jonathan NACKSTRAND / AFP

Worlds away from the thousand-year-old vineyards of continental Europe, winemaker Murre Sofrakis inspects his vines on this late summer's day, his eyes intently focused on the ripening grapes as he strolls along.

The 51-year-old strapping Swede with craggy Mediterranean looks owns a vineyard of two hectares (nearly five acres) in Sweden's southern Skåne province, and is one of the country's biggest winemakers.

When he started out in 2001, he produced 100 litres (26 gallons) made from 17 different varieties of grapes.

“It takes time in the beginning before you find the right kinds. You have to learn how to grow (them), we don't have those traditions here,” he tells AFP.

Sofrakis now runs two properties: his own, called Klagshamn which he manages with his wife and two employees, and another one called Fladie, where he is the winegrower.

He turns out a total of 20,000 bottles a year, almost a third of Sweden's total wine production.

But that's just a drop in the bucket worldwide. In Sweden, only 100 hectares of land are used for vineyards, compared to 750,000 in France.

And the money can't compare to that made by winemakers in Bordeaux, Napa Valley or the Andes.

According to the Federation of Swedish Farmers, Swedish winemakers' average revenue in 2016 amounted to 600,000 kronor (56,000 euros).

At Fladie, Sofrakis can count on about a hundred volunteers to help him out in their free time.

On this day at the tail end of summer, two pensioners prune the vines to better expose the grapes to the sun before the harvest.


Photo: Jonathan NACKSTRAND / AFP

Nordic winegrowers are self-taught amateurs for the most part, but lately they've begun recruiting experts, often from abroad.

Sofrakis has hired 31-year-old Chinese oenologist Jixing Ding as his master winemaker to help him make a better product.

Nordic vineyards primarily produce a white wine made from Solaris, a German hybrid grape that holds up well in the cold Scandinavian climate, where the grapes have only a short time to ripen.

Solaris is “very easy to grow in terms of robustness to diseases. It's relatively vigorous,” University of Copenhagen professor and cold climate winegrowing expert Torben Andersen tells AFP.

Despite the difficult conditions, winegrowing is expanding in the region.

Sveneric Svensson, head of the Swedish Winegrowers' Association, says the trend is “not due to climate change, but to new types of grapes” that don't need high temperatures to ripen.

Rising temperatures have however led to better harvests.

An increase of “one degree in a century, it's helping… We see changes that make it easier and more fun,” says Andersen.

The summer of 2018 was unusually hot, yielding an exceptionally large vintage.

In Sweden, about 30 winegrowers sell their wines, and just under 100 in their southern neighbour Denmark.

Only one vineyard in the Nordic region holds the appellation d'origine protegee (AOP) — Europe's badge of quality for a special product rooted in its region: the Dons vineyard in Denmark.

While many Nordic winegrowers claim to produce organic wines, few are actually able to stick an official “organic” label on their bottles, as the administrative process is considered too painstaking and pricey.

“Everything is done by hand, we use no chemicals, we only use organically approved materials.

“In Sweden (and Denmark) it's forbidden to use copper,” which is used elsewhere to combat mildew but is increasingly controversial because of the toxicity it releases into the soil, says Sofrakis.

Nordic wines are mainly sold locally.

While Danish winemakers are allowed to sell their product at their vineyards, that is not allowed in Sweden and Finland, where state-run monopolies are the only ones allowed to sell alcohol.

So how does it taste, this wine hailing from lands more known for beer and aquavit?

“Ninety-five percent of people who taste test it (Swedish wine) blindly think it has a good bouquet and that it tastes very good,” says sommelier Mattias Safvenberg.

Meanwhile, viticulture professor Andrew Reynolds at Canada's Brock University says “the quality is already more than acceptable and will improve with time and with the introduction of other varieties.”

But Swedish wines aren't ready to take over the world just yet — contrary to the country's sommeliers, who regularly place at the top in international competitions, such as Jon Arvid Rosengren who was named the world's best sommelier in 2016.

READ ALSO: Danish Vikings 'may have made their own wine'