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THE LOCAL RECIPES

FISH

How to make Sweden’s posh potato cakes at home

Known as 'Råraka' in Swedish, this potato and fish dish is common in luxury restaurants, but it's easier than you might think to make at home. Food writer John Duxbury shares his recipe with The Local.

How to make Sweden's posh potato cakes at home
Roe is very similar to caviar. Photo: John Duxbury

Similar to caviar, roe is a type of fish egg adored by Swedes. 'Kalix löjrom', one of the most popular varieties, is harvested from the Bothnian Bay archipelago in northern Sweden. It is the only Swedish product with the European Union’s Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), the same stamp given to other famous delicacies such as Parmigiano Reggiano (which must come from the Emilia-Romagna region to be recognised in this way) and Champagne (named after the region in France where it originates).

Summary

Serves: 4

Preparation: 5 minutes

Cooking: 35 minutes

Total: 40 minutes

Ingredients 

100g roe, preferably kalix löjrom

1 red onion, finely chopped

120ml crème fraîche or gräddfil

4 lemon wedges

4 small sprigs of dill

600g potatoes

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp butter

1 tbsp vegetable oil

Method

1. Thaw the roe in the fridge overnight. If it is a bit watery, rinse and drain.

2. Peel the potatoes and coarsely grate them. Put them in a bowl of water to prevent them from going brown.


Photo: Leif R Jansson/TT

3. Add half of the butter and half of the oil to a frying pan over a medium heat.

4. When the butter turns golden brown and is almost smoking, drain about a quarter of the potatoes in a sieve and then spread them out in the pan to make two potato cakes. Push the mixture down with a spatula so that each cake is fairly thin and about 5cm in diameter. Fry for about four minutes per side until golden brown and crispy. Remove from the pan, pat dry with kitchen paper and then keep warm.

5. Repeat with the rest of the mixture, adding more butter and oil if necessary.

6. To serve, put two potato cakes on each plate, top with the roe, finely chopped red onion, crème fraîche, a lemon wedge and garnish with some dill.


Photo: Janerik Henriksson/TT

Tips

– Serve the potato cakes with fried bacon and lingonberries, if you don't like or can't find roe.

– Roe is best served with mother of pearl spoons rather than metal or wooden ones, to avoid tainting the taste.

Recipe courtesy of John Duxbury, Editor and Founder of Swedish Food

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DISCOVER SWEDEN

The three tasty treats that make spring in Sweden a forager’s dream

Although parts of Sweden are still under snow at this time of year, spring is in full swing here in Skåne in the south of Sweden. Here are The Local's top tips for what you can forage in the great outdoors this season.

The three tasty treats that make spring in Sweden a forager's dream

You might already have your go-to svampställe where you forage mushrooms in autumn, but mushrooms aren’t the only thing you can forage in Sweden. The season for fruits and berries hasn’t quite started yet, but there is a wide range of produce on offer if you know where to look.

Obviously, all of these plants grow in the wild, meaning it’s a good idea to wash them thoroughly before you use them. You should also be respectful of nature and of other would-be foragers when you’re out foraging, and make sure not to take more than your fair share to ensure there’s enough for everyone.

As with all foraged foods, only pick and eat what you know. The plants in this guide do not look similar to any poisonous plants, but it’s always better to be safe than sorry – or ask someone who knows for help.

Additionally, avoid foraging plants close to the roadside or in other areas which could be more polluted. If you haven’t tried any of these plants before, start in small doses to make sure you don’t react negatively to them.

Wild garlic plants in a park in Alnarpsparken, Skåne. Photo: Johan Nilsson/TT

Wild garlic

These pungent green leaves are just starting to pop up in shady wooded areas, and may even hang around as late as June in some areas. Wild garlic or ramsons, known as ramslök in Swedish, smell strongly of garlic and have wide, flat, pointed leaves which grow low to the ground.

The whole plant is edible: leaves, flowers and the bulbs underground – although try not to harvest too many bulbs or the plants won’t grow back next year.

The leaves have a very strong garlic taste which gets weaker once cooked. Common recipes for wild garlic include pesto and herb butter or herbed oil, but it can generally be used instead of traditional garlic in most recipes. If you’re cooking wild garlic, add it to the dish at the last possible moment so it still retains some flavour.

You can also preserve the flower buds and seed capsules as wild garlic capers, known as ramslökskapris in Swedish, which will then keep for up to a year.

Stinging nettles. Wear gloves when harvesting these to protect yourself from their needles. Photo: Johan Nilsson/TT

Stinging nettles

Brännässlor or stinging nettles need to be cooked before eating to remove their sting, although blanching them for a couple of seconds in boiling water should do the trick. For the same reason, make sure you wear good gardening gloves when you pick them so you don’t get stung.

Nettles often grow in the same conditions as wild garlic – shady woodlands, and are often regarded as weeds.

The younger leaves are best – they can get stringy and tough as they get older.

A very traditional use for brännässlor in Sweden is nässelsoppa, a bright green soup made from blanched nettles, often topped with a boiled or poached egg.

Some Swedes may also remember eating stuvade nässlor with salmon around Easter, where the nettles are cooked with cream, butter and milk. If you can’t get hold of nettles, they can be replaced with spinach for a similar result.

You can also dry nettles and use them to make tea, or use blanched nettles to make nettle pesto.

Kirskål or ground elder, another popular foraged green for this time of year.
Photo: Jessica Gow/TT

Ground elder

Ground elder is known as kirskål in Swedish, and can be used much in the same way as spinach. It also grows in shady areas, and is an invasive species, meaning that you shouldn’t be too worried about foraging too much of it (you might even find some in your garden!).

It is quite common in parks and old gardens, but can also be found in wooded areas. The stems and older leaves can be bitter, so try to focus on foraging the tender, younger leaves.

Ground elder has been cultivated in Sweden since at least 500BC, and has been historically used as a medicinal herb and as a vegetable. This is one of the reasons it can be found in old gardens near Swedish castles or country homes, as it was grown for use in cooking.

Kirskål is available from March to September, although it is best eaten earlier in the season.

As mentioned, ground elder can replace spinach in many recipes – you could also use it for pesto, in a quiche or salad, or to make ground elder soup.

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